in the past In just a few years, sport climbing has become one of the fastest growing sports in the world.
This explosion of popularity could be due to superstars like Alex Honnold, who in addition to starring in the documentary Free only Now he has several climbing shows with National GeographicIt could also be due to the proliferation of easily accessible indoor gyms. Or maybe it’s simply because sport climbing is the safest way to scale a wall; its competitors clip ropes onto pre-drilled, secured bolts rather than attaching their own protective gear as traditional climbers do.
The sport made its Olympic debut at the 2020 Tokyo Olympics, with climbers competing in three different formats: speed, hard and bouldering. American climber Nathaniel Coleman claimed a gold medal in the men’s combined event at the Tokyo Games.
This August, American Jesse Grupper will compete in Paris. Grupper is from Montclair, New Jersey, where he started climbing in an indoor gym when he was six years old. He earned his degree in mechanical engineering from Tufts and worked in Harvard Biodesign Labdeveloping exoskeletons for stroke victims, and currently remains a researcher in the lab.
But Grupper largely stepped away from the life of academic research when he turned full-time pro and began tearing up the World Cup competition circuit. In 2023, he qualified for the 2024 Paris Olympics when he won gold in the men’s combined hardship and bouldering in Santiago at the Pan American Games 2023I caught up with Jesse over Zoom on a sunny training day in Switzerland to find out what he’ll be bringing to Paris.
What Jesse Grupper brings to the Olympics
JLab Audio Go Air Sport
During Zoom, I found myself looking at Grupper’s earbuds to figure out what he had. They were the JLab Go Air Sport, which is the top-rated budget option in our guide to the best workout headphones. They’re the sporty version of 2020’s Go Air (8/10, WIRED recommends) that cost a bit more for secure ear hooks and a cover that snaps shut at the top.
The build quality, Bluetooth connectivity, and sound quality are all amazing, considering the price. Plus, they come in a wide variety of fun colors. “They fit easily and aren’t too expensive,” Grupper says. “I’ve had them for a while now and they haven’t broken yet, so I’m excited about that.”
La Sportiva Solution
La Sportiva is an Italian company that has been making technical climbing apparel for nearly 100 years. When it comes to choosing between closure systems for climbing shoes, lace closures will give you a more precise fit, while Velcro will make getting them on and off easier. The Solution combines the two with La Sportiva’s Fast Lacing system.
As with all types of footwear, finding the right climbing shoe can be a challenge, and even more so for professional climbers, who rely on the precision of their feet to reach ever higher. “These have that sweet spot in between: flexible enough to stand on large surfaces, yet stiff enough for small footholds,” Grupper says. “A lot of companies have opted to create softer shoes for the indoor market, but I like to have a stiffer shoe for my quiver.”
Armaid
In recent months, Grupper has been dealing with a flexor tendon strain; earlier this year, she had to take a six-week break to allow her hands to recover. It was stressful, she says, though she’s keeping a positive attitude as Paris approaches. “I don’t feel like I have to compare myself to others, nor do I want to, because I’m just trying to figure out where I’m at. I’m not in the best shape of my life, and that could change in the next month, but I’m just trying to take it day by day.”
The Armaid is a small, hand-held device that allows you to massage trigger points, small pressure-sensitive areas that can cause a lot of pain and stiffness. The Armaid consists of a non-slip base, a fixed arm, and a small adjustable arm with small rolling balls. “I put my forearm right here and squeeze with my other hand so my forearm is compressed,” Grupper says, demonstrating. “The tendon that I sprained runs all the way through my forearm, so I can release the tension on it.” The Armaid is also useful for other overuse injuries, such as tennis elbow, golfer’s elbow, or tendonitis.
Trango Horizon Harness
Most climbers don’t need too many features in their harness. Unless the climber is competing in a specific discipline like ice climbing or canyoneering, or if they have a specific body type (children often need a child harness, for example), then they can choose a harness based on comfort. “I sit with my harness on for a lot of the day when I’m training, so comfort is probably the most important thing I look for in a harness,” says Grupper. He uses the Trango Horizon. “It has extra loops to attach things, it’s intuitive to use, and it’s a safe brand that I trust.” Full disclosure: Trango is one of Grupper’s sponsors and the representation that arranged this interview.
Sterling Aero Rope
When you’re climbing, your rope is your best friend. It’s the thing that keeps you from falling and hitting the ground. There are many different types of ropes, but for sport climbing, you need a simple, dynamic rope that stretches and gives when you fall. A thicker rope is more durable, but harder to carry and maneuver in carabiners. Also, keep in mind the length of your rope: you want the span you’re climbing to be half the length of your rope so you can safely descend. So if you’re climbing a 30-meter route, you need a 60-meter rope.
Grupper likes Sterling’s Aero rope because, at 9.2 millimeters thick, it is extremely thin and light compared to other ropes. The fibers are also treated with what Sterling calls a Xeros process that keeps it clean and dry and allows it to slide more easily through your rappelling or belay device. It’s also easier to slide through hooks so your rope doesn’t create unnecessary drag. “The higher you go, the more weight you’re putting on the harness,” he says. Sterling’s ropes are approved by the eco-responsibility certification group Bluesign, and the company has a dead rope recycling program — a good option if you don’t feel like using it. Weaving your own rug of your worn strings.
Nike Precool Ice Vest
“My equipment has changed quite a bit because of the climate change,” says Grupper. As with most outdoor sports, cooler temperatures are preferable. Grupper likes to climb when the temperature is around 10 or 15 degrees Celsius. Unfortunately, this year in Paris temperatures are expected to rise quite a bit, possibly reaching 100 degrees Celsius. 90 degrees.
When temperatures are high, most of us stay safe by staying in temperature-controlled environments and not overexerting ourselves. That’s not an option for Olympic athletes, who are rightly concerned about the health risks to compete in high temperatures. According to a 2023 report110 athletes suffered heat-related illnesses during the Tokyo Olympics. This year’s figure could be even higher.
“Almost every competitor has a personal fan, and many teams carry ice packs and coolers. We may have personal air conditioners for the warm-up area,” which is indoors, while the venue is outdoors, Grupper says. “I think it’s quite interesting how the sport is evolving to meet the demands of climate change.”
Fortunately, most teams have personal cooling equipment, but Grupper has been practicing with an ice vest on, just to see what it feels like. Nike has made ice vests specifically for Team USA for this year’s Olympics; this one isn’t one, but it does have four refreezable ice packs in pockets that can be easily carried.
“Sometimes I even pour water on my head before competing,” Grupper says. “I may not look my best, but it’s the right thing to do.”
Grupper will compete in the men’s boulder and difficulty competitions at the Climbing spot in Le BourgetThe first semi-final will be held on 5 August and the men’s final on 9 August.
