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I have been a facialist for over 45 years, which means I have spent my entire working life in the professional beauty industry. I’ve seen countless self-inflicted skin damage and it has made me a very outspoken facialist.
Most damage can be prevented by following some very basic rules, and I always give my clients the wake-up call they need.
This isn’t about being harsh or judgmental, it’s honest and realistic advice that will help you have better skin for life. Start by accepting that a facial, no matter how brilliant, is not a miracle cure.
I can provide expert knowledge and products, but long-term results come from a smart, committed routine at home.
That’s why Kirsti Shuba and I created our Katherine Daniels range to keep things simple – you just need a two to three minute routine twice a day, that’s all. It’s not too much to ask. In the salon, I am always honest about what is necessary and what is not.
So, let me give you the benefit of my four decades in the industry and tell you exactly why your skin looks older than your age.
I’ve seen countless self-inflicted skin damage and it’s made me a very outspoken facialist (stock image)
Your face is dirty
To be clear: a micellar water is not a cleanser. It removes eye makeup and other types of makeup, so keep it in your “rescue kit” for nights when we’re all guilty of letting routines slide. But that’s not cleansing, and a poor cleansing regimen is the main reason your skincare falls short of expectations.
Katherine Daniels Toning Lotion (£28; katherinedaniels.com) is essential
I’m also surprised by how many women still use facial wipes as a cleanser; They are full of nasty chemicals, dry out the skin, and should be avoided at all costs.
We double cleanse in salon treatments, and you should too. Each. Single. Evening. I recommend using a cleanser and mitt in addition to an alcohol-free soothing toner.
Toners have gotten a bad rap over the years, but not all toners are created equal, and a non-stripping, calming, pH-balanced one like our Katherine Daniels Toning Lotion (£28; katherinedaniels.com) is essential.
If you don’t do this, you’ll leave the door open to spots, pigmentation, and premature lines and wrinkles.
you are unfaithful
Cutting and changing products not only damages and confuses the skin, but it is also a waste of money.
One of the biggest problems is the use of contradictory ingredients that make the skin work in opposite ways: one can make it produce less oil and another can make it produce more.
Don’t get distracted by the latest ‘quick fix miracle’ product, all you’re doing is giving your skin mixed messages which, just like people, can cause it to react negatively or become overly sensitive and uncomfortable.
Remember, you need to give the products at least three to four weeks (a skin regeneration cycle) to see results. Have a little patience!
you ignore the cause
You must first strengthen the skin barrier function with moisturizing and nourishing ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, fatty acids and ceramides (file image)
Too many people think superficially about their skin and address what they don’t like rather than the cause, often using the wrong product and making matters worse.
Take age spots for example. It’s usually this time of year (early summer, when we wear less makeup) when people want to treat their hyperpigmentation spots. What you should do is look for preventive measures and reserve curative treatments for autumn and winter.
Even then, it’s not as simple as applying the latest serum or cream.
You must first strengthen your skin’s barrier function (its natural defense) with hydrating and nourishing ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, fatty acids and ceramides (and don’t forget to apply SPF as your daily skin armor).
Pigmentation marks occur as a way to protect the skin. Unless you address that, you will continue with your own self-protection techniques. Harsh products to “eradicate” the patches will only make the situation worse.
Whatever your aging skin problems, address the cause first.
You have a ‘diet face’
Large weight loss and gain have a serious effect on the “stretching” of our skin. This may not be visible in our 20s and 30s, but as we age it will cause sagging skin. Often, the “sagging” of the contours of the face ages more than wrinkles and gives a sad appearance.
Starving your body will also deprive your skin of essential nutrients. The skin needs hydration, lipids, antioxidants and nutrients to function properly.
If you are 45 or older and want to lose weight quickly, keep in mind that you could be sacrificing a plump, more youthful-looking complexion for a smaller dress size.
You have ‘Wine Face’
Think twice before having that next glass or two of wine. Alcohol dehydrates internal organs and skin.
It also depletes the body of nutrients and vitamins, especially vitamin A, which in turn decreases our collagen and elastin and the wonderful youthful proteins in our skin.
Additionally, alcohol is converted to sugar in our body and excess sugar destroys collagen and elastin fibers, which, in turn, increases wrinkles.
Your skin doesn’t lie, and dehydration, pronounced fine lines, dark circles, dullness, inflammation, and intense coloration are signs that tell me someone has gone overboard.
You forgot that the best anti-aging is free
When we are tired our body produces too much cortisol and adrenaline and an overload of these has an aging effect.
Getting a restful sleep is often a difficult task. Life happens. But a good eight hours of sleep is regenerative, and insomnia is a major factor in aging because it affects the body’s ability to produce healthy cells.
When we are tired, our body produces too much cortisol and adrenaline and an overload of these has an aging effect.
Find a way to relax before bed and your face will thank you because sleep is one of the most underrated and underused anti-aging agents out there.
I tell all my clients to rest eight hours a night, but remember: it’s the three or four hours before 1 a.m. that are most crucial for skin repair and radiance.
