I cooked in HexClad cookware, which proves that you can, in fact, cook in it.

The first time I used the HexClad Hybrid Deep Skillet and got burned on the stay-cool handle (more on that later). I seasoned the pan with oil. according to the manufacturer’s recommendationsI cooked a few eggs and they turned out mostly fine, but they stuck to the pan that is marketed as “nonstick.” This led me down the path of minor inconveniences that culminated in one conclusion: HexClad cookware is fine, I guess. But hybrid technology that combines stainless steel and nonstick cookware doesn’t have that much of an impact, except on the negatives, and you should get a good stainless steel pan and a good nonstick pan instead.

First impressions

When I test a product, I have one rule: Start with fresh eyes. That means, as much as possible, I avoid other people’s opinions—professional critics, friends, my pets, and so on. I was already skeptical of HexClad because of the hype surrounding it, and my experience cooking with it confirmed my intuition. You know when you’re shopping on Amazon and decide to buy wrapping paper and the items arrive inside a weirdly clingy cloth bag? That’s what HexClad pans come wrapped in (inside their boxes) upon arrival. It’s a minor thing, but it bothered me. It reminded me of staying at a really nice hotel, only to find out that the sheets are seven-thread count and the toilet paper is clear. And then I started cooking with them. Cookware coated with polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), or Teflon, is generally considered safe, but if damaged or heated to over 500 degrees Fahrenheit, it can be harmful to your health. I tried scraping the surface of the pan with a fork and it didn’t flake or scratch. That’s good! But on the other hand, because of the hexagonal pattern on the inside surface of the pan, I don’t know if I’d see tiny scratches or chips as easily as on a nonstick coated pan. You know what kind of cookware doesn’t have these issues? Carbon steel and cast iron. You know what doesn’t cost $179? Our favorite nonstick pan.

The $179 12 inch hybrid skillet It’s fine. It heats evenly and quickly, just a bit slower than my All-Clad comparison. Same goes for the $179 model. 3.3 Quart Hybrid Deep FryerBut when these are priced at a comparable level to All-Clad, which I (and many chefs) consider the standard, they better work just as well, and in my experience that wasn’t the case. During my month-long test, I cooked pasta, eggs, and steak on the stovetop twice in each pan.