When Rhodri the Great built Castell Dinefwr as a defense against the Vikings in the 9th century, he brought with him distinctive white-haired, long-horned cattle to provide sustenance.
Rhodri, who was busy laying the foundations of Wales, probably never suspected that this ancient race, known as the White Park, would survive the age of kings.
Although he has done it. At the foot of the castle, near the town of Llandeilo, a flock of 20 grazes next to the Newton House visitor cafe. A living reminder of the former ruler.
This Grade II listed country house, dating from 1660, is now owned by the National Trust and is a curious building.
Newton is considered one of the most haunted places in Wales, and television crews come regularly hoping to film paranormal activity (following rumors of voices and smells coming from empty rooms that began in the 1980s).
There’s nothing to report about our visit, although it’s interesting to see the World War II display and the property’s impressive art collection, including a portrait of Mary, Queen of Scots, bidding farewell to France in 1561.
Dinefwr is not the only castle in the area. Carreg Cennen Castle overlooks miles of pristine countryside from its own summit, six miles away.
This is hidden from view when we visit at night to take advantage of its Dark Skies Reserve status and enjoy a jar of hot chocolate under the stars.
Laura travels to Llandeilo, South Wales, where “a strip of pastel-coloured houses leads into the market town from a stone bridge over the River Towy” (above)
Laura visits Castell Dinefwr (above), which was built in the 9th century
Rhodri the Great “brought distinctive white-haired, long-horned cattle to provide sustenance” to Castell Dinefwr in the 9th century and “probably never suspected that this ancient breed, known as the White Park, would survive the age of kings.”
Llandeilo, where we stayed, has a population of around 1,800.
A strip of pastel-coloured houses leads into the market town from a stone bridge over the River Towy. Its main street has boutiques, craft shops and galleries displaying local art.
We stopped for lunch at the Cawdor Arms, which locals say serves the best Welsh lamb in Carmarthenshire. Another attraction is located just outside the town, at Dolaucothi, the only known Roman gold mine in Britain.
Here you can join underground tours three days a week.
An excavated area in the courtyard was once a huge open pit where the Romans may have used local slave labor to dig for gold. There is also a walking trail.
Along a wooded path, you follow a stream with the sound of trickling water and the occasional drumming of large woodpeckers.
It is a wonderful sight, as are Rhodri’s cattle in his old castle. The past feels very close in this charming corner of Carmarthenshire.
WHERE TO STAY: Doubles at The Cawdor in Llandeilo from £115 B&B (thecawdor.com). Sixt has car/minivan hire from £36 per day (sixt.co.uk).
Grade II listed Newton House “is considered one of the most haunted places in Wales” (above)
Carreg Cennen Castle (pictured above) ‘overlooking miles of pristine countryside from its own summit’