Travelers to India often have to stopover in the capital, but Delhi is sometimes overlooked and that’s a shame.
Not only is it vibrant and occasionally extravagant (where else has a ‘Toilet Museum’?), but it is also one of the most beautifully designed cities in the world.
Although getting around can be slow, that’s part of its charm. For most people, a tuk-tuk is fine: crossing New Delhi costs only about £3 and the friendly drivers tend to call you “uncle” or “aunty”.
So be sure to set aside at least a day or two to explore the city. Here are eight highlights you shouldn’t miss.
Palaces, ministries and monuments
Visit the Presidential Palace, a magnificent building designed by Edward Lutyens
Much of New Delhi is built of red sandstone and was designed by Edward Lutyens (who designed the London Cenotaph). His most important work is the President’s Palace, or Rashtrapati Bhavan, with its 340 rooms and a park-sized garden. For a few kilos you can see everything by tuk-tuk. The museum explains the history of the world’s largest democracy.
How to do it: www.rastrapatibhavan.gov.in
See the elegant houses
Gandhi’s room at Gandhi Smriti, the house where he lived during the last period of his life.
There are two that are worth visiting. Gandhi Smriti (formerly Birla House) is where Mahatma Gandhi lived and where he was shot in 1948. His distinctive glasses and sandals are still there in his sparsely furnished bedroom. Then there is the Prime Minister Museum, which was the last home of Jawaharlal Nehru. His collection of books is intriguing, including George Orwell’s 1984 and a dozen Bibles.
How to do it: gandhismriti.gov.in, pmsangrahalaya.gov.in
Board an imperial train
Even if you’re not a train fan, the Railway Museum is fun. Particularly special is the Prince of Wales saloon from 1875, with its palatial interior. But look out for the green armored train, built in the 1880s.
How to do it: nrmindia.org
Take a spiritual break
Resplendent: Jama Masjid mosque is one of many ‘stunning’ mosques and temples
There are some impressive Hindu temples (like Akshardham) and mosques (like the Mughal Emperor’s Jama Masjid). Plus, visit the gigantic Sikh temple, Gurudwara Bangla Sahib, built in 1783. It even has its own hospital and lake, and feeds more than 60,000 worshipers a day.
How to do it: Tours available from viator.com
Tuk-tuks of old Delhi
Above, a tuk-tuk driver
Wander through alleys and around the Red Fort (built in 1648). This is the Delhi that has not changed, with its cows, its shoe shiners and its shops that sell nothing but ribbons.
How to do it: Tuk-tuk tours from klook.com
National Museum
It contains more than 200,000 artifacts. Top of the list are the extravagant costumes of Nagaland (think Game of Thrones); two huge silver doors from Gujarat and some Ladakhi human skulls decorated with silver teeth.
How to do it: nationalmuseumindia.gov.in
Communion with wildlife
At the heart of the city lies a lush Edwardian garden suburb: New Delhi. Around India Gate, you can walk for miles through the parks. There are also many animals, including monkeys. As for birds, expect to see everything from robins to black-shouldered kites.
How to do it: See ‘parks’ in delhitourism.gov.in
Sleep like a king
The 1911 Bar inside the Imperial Hotel, where double rooms cost from £260
For a taste of the Raj, stay at the Imperial Hotel (doubles from £260). Completed in 1937, it houses more than 5,000 colonial artefacts, including hunting trophies and a VC (in the bar). Indian independence was negotiated in the ballroom and you can even sit in King George V’s chair.
How to do it: theimperialindia.com
- Transindus offers a nine-day classic Golden Triangle tour from £2,250 per person including flights, travel, transfers, guides and four-star accommodation (transindus.co.uk).