Mexico City’s Tacos El Califa de León received a Michelin star, making it the only taco stand in the world to receive the coveted award from the French gastronomic guide.
Without making much of a fuss about the incredible honor, the small restaurant’s head chef, Arturo Rivera Martínez, stood in front of his grill Wednesday searing meat for a horde of hungry customers as he has done for 20 years.
When asked how he felt about receiving the Michelin star, Rivera Martínez said “it’s cool… it’s cool”, meaning: “It’s great, it’s great.”
Although Michelin representatives came on Wednesday to present him with his well-deserved white long-sleeved chef’s jacket, he did not wear it. Not out of disrespect, but simply because his cooking area is small (10 feet by 10 feet) and extremely hot.
Diners at the stand can only order tacos, and the meat inside comes from beef ribs, loin, or front leg.
Newly appointed Michelin-starred chef Arturo Rivera Martínez prepares an order of tacos at Tacos El Califa taco stand in León in Mexico City, Wednesday, May 15, 2024.
‘The secret is the simplicity of our taco. Just have a tortilla, red or green sauce and that’s it. That and the quality of the meat,’ said Rivera Martínez.
Alberto Muñoz, a customer for eight years, said the same thing and highlighted the quality of the meat the taco stand uses.
As expected, owner Mario Hernández Alonso does not reveal where he buys his meat.
‘I’ve never been disappointed. And now I recommend him with even more reason, now that he has a star,” stated Muñoz.
Muñoz’s son, Alan, who was waiting for a beef taco with his father, said that this was ‘a historic day for Mexican cuisine and we are witnesses to it.’
An aerial view of the small taco stand. Customers line the side wall as they put salsa on their tacos, while the Michelin-starred chef continues to serve food.
And unlike other Michelin-starred chefs who sometimes offer suitable pairings for their delicious dishes, Rivera Martínez said ‘a Coca-Cola’ goes best with his tacos.
León’s El Califa is the only taco stand among the 16 restaurants in Mexico that received one star, as well as two restaurants that earned two stars. Most of them are fine restaurants serving expensive seafood.
The prices at the taco stand, however, are much more affordable: a huge taco costs almost $5. Customers say the tacos are the best, if not the cheapest, in town.
The Caliph of León has been around since 1968 and has been doing the same things that have made it so successful since the beginning.
Thousands of times a day, Rivera Martínez takes a fresh, thinly sliced steak from a stack and places it on the 680-degree steel grill.
Then sprinkle a pinch of salt on the meat and squeeze half a lime on top before taking a soft piece of freshly rolled tortilla dough to heat on the grill.
Less than a minute later (he didn’t share exactly how long because “that’s a secret”), he flips the meat, flips the tortilla, and prepares it on the plate for the waiting customer.
Mario Hernández Alonso, father of Rivera Martínez, current owner of Tacos El Califa in León, inherited the business from his father. He does not reveal where he buys his meat, which he raves about to customers.
A customer gives a thumbs up while eating a taco straight from Rivera Martínez’s grill. The taco stand is the first to receive a Michelin star from the French gastronomic guide.
This tried and true process that has earned El Califa de León a Michelin star is a symbol of how their resistance to change has been beneficial.
And looking ahead, Hernández Alonso said he will continue doing what works.
One possible way to expand the booth came after the coronavirus pandemic, as lawmakers allowed Mexico City restaurants to open canopy seating areas on the streets.
But El Califa de León doesn’t even have a sidewalk for customers to eat because of all the street vendors, so customers now find themselves face to face among display stands and plastic mannequins.
When asked if he would like to see room made for a street seating area, Hernandez Alonso expressed an “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” attitude.
‘As the saying goes, why fix or change something that’s good? They shouldn’t fix anything,’ he said, pointing at the street vendors. “It’s the way God ordered things and you have to deal with it.”
