Most US states are defined by a landmark, such as the Statue of Liberty in New York or the Grand Canyon in Arizona. But Louisiana’s personality revolves around food, so the only thing you should pack when you visit is a big appetite.
Although its capital, New Orleans, is one of the best places to enjoy the southern state’s famous cuisine, we decided to travel west along its newest food route, Gas Station Eats.
As the name suggests, this food tour doesn’t include fancy restaurants – it celebrates great meals served at simple roadside gas stations.
Stretching for 450 miles, the Gas Station Eats trail winds through an area once known as No Man’s Land, taking advantage of cut-price petrol from 70p a liter (compared to around £1.35 in home).
The region, bordering Texas, was once disputed territory between Spanish Texas and the United States’ newly acquired Louisiana Purchase. Today it is firmly part of Louisiana, but its pioneering and rebellious spirit remains.
Fine Dining: Katja Gaskell Takes Louisiana ‘Gas Station Eats’ Road Trip. Above, Strother’s Country Store in Vernon Parish, featured along the way.
Louisiana’s capital, New Orleans, “is one of the best places to enjoy the southern state’s famous cuisine,” says Katja
Heading west along the highway from New Orleans, we finally reached the swampy southern parish of Calcasieu. Our first stop was the Cajun Fast Mart in Sulfur, a small town on the edge of the Creole Nature Trail.
Known as the Louisiana backcountry, the swamps and marshes along this 180-mile road are teeming with birds and the occasional alligator.
Like all featured gas stations, Cajun Fast Mart is at the center of its community: a place where you can do your weekly shopping, stock up on fishing and hunting gear, and catch up on gossip. Every gas station along the way also has a signature dish, and here it’s egg sandwiches with jalapeño mayonnaise.
Gastronomic fuel: At Chadeaux’s Cajun Kitchen in Allen Parish, Katja learns about their famous boudin sausage (left), and when she stops at the 3 J’s Fourways gas station in Natchitoches, she’s tempted by the burgers (right), but opts for the famous Renee’s. Fried Ribs
Spanning 450 miles, the ‘Gas Station Eats’ trail winds its way through an area of Louisiana once known as No Man’s Land.
Traveling north, we headed to Chadeaux’s Cajun Kitchen in Allen Parish (the parishes are a legacy from when the state was ruled by Roman Catholic France). Rodney, the owner, said his best-seller was the homemade boudin sausage seasoned with a secret blend of spices that has been passed down from generation to generation. And he added: ‘We can sell a ton a month. Sometimes people buy a pound of boudin and a six-pack of beer; We call that a seven-course meal.
Further along in Beauregard Parish is the town of DeRidder. Founded in the 1890s, the historic Main Street looks like something out of a John Wayne western movie. Its featured gas station, Big Thicket BBQ, is famous for its Peach Bourbon Ribs. Nearby is the city’s spooky Gothic jail, supposedly haunted by the ghosts of a double hanging that took place in 1928.
There are also less gruesome views along the trail. We spent a couple of days in Sabine Parish, staying at Wildwood Resort overlooking Lake Toledo, the largest man-made body of water in the south. Just a short drive away is Fort Jesup State Historic Site, once the westernmost fort on the border.
Sabine Parish is also known for its Native American tamales. At Bub T’s Tamale House, the charming Sepulvado family wraps, steams, and fries hundreds of dishes every day.
The Louisiana swamps, as seen above, “teeming with birds and the occasional alligator,” says Katja
In the town of DeRidder, Katja dines at Big Thicket BBQ and reveals that it’s famous for its Peach Bourbon Ribs.
Heading north we stopped in De Soto Parish to refuel at the DB station, which serves “meat and three,” which is beef, turnip greens, greens, and cornbread.
Natchitoches (pronounced Nack-a-tish) was the last town on the trail. Founded in 1714 by French explorers, it’s also the official meat pie capital of Louisiana, and the French Market Express gas station does a brisk business in crab meat pies, along with some heavenly yam pies.
Our last stop was 3 J’s Fourways gas station on the outskirts, where we were tempted by the burgers but decided on Renee’s famous fried ribs – they deserve to be even more famous.