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Equal parts colossal and confusing, Istanbul is as captivating today as it was under Emperor Constantine and in its later Ottoman heyday.
For the savvy traveller, the city holds great appeal, with the pound on the rise against the Turkish lira – up 25 per cent from a year ago. A long weekend on the Bosphorus is a cultural treat and a bargain.
Where to stay
Sokullu Pasa
Tucked away down a cobbled alley in the Sultanahmet district, just a five-minute walk from the Hippodrome, Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, this beautiful old townhouse offers excellent value for money with rooms adorned with flowing caftans, wrought-iron lampshades and a colossal buffet breakfast that can be taken in the small garden shaded by lemon trees. Double rooms from £65 B&B (sokullupasahotel.com).
Rob Crossan shares his travel guide to Istanbul for under £100 a night: explore Turkey’s unique city that straddles Europe and Asia.
Empress Zoe
The “small double” rooms are really very small, though they are adorned with beautiful fabrics and brightly coloured prints. Zoe (named after a former regent) consists of two old terraced houses and part of a hammam dating back to the 15th century. The garden covered with palm trees and yuccas is a peaceful place to have breakfast and most of Sultanahmet’s main sights are within a 20-minute walk. Double rooms from £78 B&B (emzoe.com).
Niles Hotel
From the Marmol marble to the Iznik tiles and the leafy rooftop garden, this is a high-class hotel with a Bosphorus-meets-Bordeaux vibe. Breakfasts are a generous spread of yoghurts, cheeses and borek (filled pastries) and there’s even free cake in the lobby in the afternoon. Double rooms from £97 including breakfast (hotelniles.com).
Ibrahim Pasha
The Ibrahim Pasha Hotel is surrounded by the city’s main sights and spans “both sides of the Bosphorus and Hagia Sophia (above),” says Rob
The view from the terrace of this small hotel, a few minutes’ walk from Topkapi Palace and the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art, is spectacular, spanning both sides of the Bosphorus and Hagia Sophia. If you step inside after dark, you’ll find a sitting room lined with books about the city collected by the owner. The rooms are elegant, adorned with dark wood Venetian blinds and a few well-chosen Turkish rugs. Double rooms from £86 including breakfast (ibrahimpasha.com).
What to see and do
Ferry across the Bosphorus
Take a ferry from Eminonu Docks on the European side of the Bosphorus to Uskudar Docks on the Asian side. It’s convenient for getting around, but also a great way to see the city from the water, especially at sunset. Fares start from 40p. See “How to use Istanbul ferries” on vacationtipsinstanbul.com.
Cinili Turkish Bath
Hammam experiences on the west side of Istanbul tend to be overpriced and aimed primarily at visitors.
To really get a feel for how the locals indulge in this age-old pastime, head to the Asian coast and the humble, terracotta-hued Cinili Hamam. This building dates back to 1640 and has separate entrances for men and women, where towels are provided. You can choose between “self-service” or having an attendant wash you down, armed with a skin-peeling glove, before you stretch out on the huge marble slabs of the “hararet” steam room (cinilihamam.com£15).
Blue Mosque
Seen here, the Blue Mosque is “beautiful as an example of Ottoman imperial architecture at its grandest,” says Rob
Since January, entry to the Hagia Sophia mosque has cost a whopping £22 for all non-Muslim foreign visitors. Luckily, the nearby Blue Mosque remains free and is just as beautiful as an example of Ottoman imperial architecture at its finest.
Built by order of Sultan Ahmed I between 1609 and 1617, it is the brilliant collection of Isnik tiles in its interior that gives the mosque its famous nickname (Binbirdirek, At Meydanı Cd, No 10, free entry).
Basilica Cistern of Yerebatan
The Basilica Cistern (above) featured in the James Bond film From Russia with Love; now visitors can explore it via walkways that wind around the 336 columns
When Sean Connery visited the site in From Russia with Love, the Emperor Constantine’s vast underwater storage facility was only navigable. Now there are walkways running along the 336 columns, bathed in softly changing coloured lights (yerebatan.com/en£15).
Where to eat
Canaat
The best value restaurants in Istanbul are the esnaf lokantasi, which are basically workers’ canteens serving home-cooked dishes at cheap prices.
There’s no better example than Kanaat on the Asian coast. Moussakas, lamb in bechamel sauce, liver skewers and plates of stuffed aubergines come accompanied by large baskets of bread for dipping the sauces (mains around £6, kanaatlokantasi.com.tr).
Durumcu Mehmet
For some, finding the best kebab in Istanbul is a lifelong odyssey, but you’ll be hard pressed to find one better than the lamb, liver or chicken kebabs served at this little joint in the Grand Bazaar.
Head to Durumcu Mehmet in the Grand Bazaar, pictured, for the “best kebab in Istanbul.”
“For some, finding the best kebab in Istanbul is a lifelong odyssey,” says Rob. Above, a food vendor in Eminonu, Istanbul
Sit on the tiny stools among the locals, don’t be afraid to shout for service, and tuck into the bulging wrapped delicacies before venturing back into the maze of the bazaar (mains from £3.50, Mollafenari, Kiliccilar Sk. No 35).
Izmir Coffee
Located on the main street of the bohemian Beyoglu district, Smyrna seduces with its outdoor tables filled with musicians and actors drinking Efes beer among the foliage and candles.
Salads, pastas and grilled meats dominate the reasonably priced menu and you’re virtually guaranteed to have one of the neighbourhood cats keeping you company as you dine and drink (mains from £9, Akarsu Yakusa, No 29).
How to get there
BA Holidays (es.ba.com) offers two nights at the Sokullu Pasa hotel from £196 per person, including return flights from Heathrow.
BA has a dedicated accessibility team – please see the ‘What assistance is available?’ page. Wizz Air offers return flights from £83 (en.wizzair.com).
