Our cheerful captain, tanned like a mahogany, slides the boat toward some rocks and then directs his group of excited hikers toward an imperceptible path between tall reeds.
I lead the way with fearless vigor and a few minutes later we emerge on a beach of cinematic beauty, with alabaster white sand and a shimmering sea of the palest emerald.
But the desert island spell is instantly broken when an angry Italian woman walks toward us, clutching a walkie-talkie and giving orders in comically accented English.
‘Do not stop! Without towel! Do not sit down! Walk!’ Then he orders our bewildered troop to follow her.
It’s business as usual at Budelli Island’s Cavaliere Beach, a stretch of sand so gorgeous it requires security guards.
Isolated: Rob McGibbon explores the less visited north of Sardinia. Above, one of the hidden bays that dot the coasts.
Cavaliere Beach on Budelli Island (pictured), off the coast of northern Sardinia, is a stretch of sand so gorgeous it requires security guards.
Budelli is one of more than 60 islands that make up the La Maddalena archipelago, a protected national marine park off the coast of northern Sardinia.
The whole area is beautiful and has been a magnet for flotillas of seafaring tourists for decades.
However, mindless souvenir hunters have stolen so much sand, shells and stones over the years that guards are now posted on some ecologically fragile beaches during peak season. For removing these irreplaceable treasures, fines can reach £2,600.
I went to Sardinia for the first time in 1977 and have rediscovered it in recent years as a perfect destination for a family holiday in Europe.
It has it all: climate, sea, gastronomy, culture, history and beaches at the level of the Caribbean.
You’ll be sure to receive a warm welcome wherever you go and it’s just a two-hour flight away.
Rob checks into Resort Valle dell’Erica, part of the Delphina Resorts hotel group
Rob spent most of his time in Valle dell’Erica on the “serene” Licciola beach (pictured)
We are here to discover the less visited north and use the hotels of Delphina Resorts, the oldest hotel group on the island, as springboards.
Delphina has eight coastal properties here and is still owned by the two families who founded it 30 years ago.
Our first stay is at Capo d’Orso, with 80 rooms located in a forest leading to the sea.
A boat trip is the only way to appreciate the beauty of Sardinia’s seas, and our next hotel has the perfect answer. Valle dell’Erica has its own elegant wooden sailboat from 1927 called La Pulcinella exclusively for guests.
Aboard La Pulcinella we visited Budelli and sailed around other islands, anchoring in bays to swim in the warm waters.
A boat trip is the only way to appreciate the beauty of Sardinia’s seas, says Rob. In the photo: Boats anchored near the shores of Budelli Island.
In the photo: the sandy coast of Licciola beach, located near the Valle dell’Erica
Above, seafood dish spaghetti alle vongole
A delicious lunch of pasta with seafood and fresh local Vermentino white wine is served on board.
On the way home, our deckhand stops a passing Algida brand speedboat (the Italian version of Wall’s ice cream) so we can buy Cornettos. A truly unforgettable day.
Most of the time we stayed at Erica was spent on the serene Licciola Beach or in its spa and saltwater pools.
As we say goodbye to Sardinia, a member of the reception staff says: “Stessa spiaggia, stesso mare.” She explains that it is a typical farewell to the Italian summer, with the simple wish of seeing you again next year on “the same beach, the same sea.”
Well, if the holiday gods shine on us, we will definitely be there again and we promise not to steal anything.