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Topical retinoids, such as over-the-counter retinol and prescription tretinoin, may also treat wrinkles and texture by slowing the breakdown of collagen and increasing skin cell renewal. Both retinol and LEDs usually take several months to see results, but retinoids come with more side effectssuch as increased breakouts and sometimes scaly, burning skin.
Unfortunately, not everyone will see results with red or blue light therapy, and this could contribute to suspicion about these devices and whether they work. You won’t know until you try it, although you should talk to a dermatologist to see what they recommend based on your skin type. Waldman says there’s no reason to believe red light can be harmful if you’re pregnant or breastfeeding, but since there isn’t much research involving pregnant women, you should consult your doctor first. We also recommend making sure the device you are considering is FDA approved.
Wavelengths, explained
Phototherapy devices are usually quite expensive, but there’s a good reason: you can’t get the same effect with just any red LED from the hardware store. If the wavelength is not strong enough, it will not penetrate your skin; sorry for the TikTokker sitting in front of a heated chicken lamp.
These are the typical wavelengths, measured in nanometers, to look for:
- red light therapy It commonly uses wavelengths in the range of 630 to 660 nanometers, with the lowest effective wavelength around 600 nanometers.
- Near infrared red lights They are usually 800 to 1,400 nanometers. These penetrate deeper into the skin and are primarily used for healing and reducing inflammation.
- Blue light It is usually 405 to 420 nanometers to kill acne-causing bacteria.
How to use red light therapy and LED facial masks
LED light therapy doesn’t work for everyone, but consistency is crucial if you want to try it. If you think you won’t remember to use a light therapy mask several times a week, you won’t see results and it won’t be worth it.
Follow the instructions for the specific device you are using, but in general, you will want wash and dry your face and use the mask before applying any skin care products. Devices must have a set session time, typically between three and 10 minutes. Wear it all the time unless you feel uncomfortable. Apply your skincare afterwards as usual.focusing on hydrating or moisturizing serums, especially if you are prone to dryness. Do not use these masks for longer than indicated in their instructions.
While you can use red light therapy and retinoids in your routine, Waldman does not recommend using them simultaneously as it can increase the chance of irritation.
Take some photos before you start wearing a mask so you can track progress. You may not see dramatic results right away, but with photographs you will at least be able to tell if something is happening.
Our tests
I have been using the Omnilux LED Contour Mask, which is among the most popular LED face masks right now. The wavelengths of red light are 633 nanometers and those of near infrared are 830 nanometers. It has pre-programmed 10-minute sessions and the company says to use it three to five times a week for four to six weeks. Then you’ll want to maintain the results by using the device occasionally after that.
Six weeks was not enough to see results; I ended up using it for three months straight. Unfortunately, I haven’t noticed much difference in my wrinkles. Some people may see results sooner, but Waldman says three months is usually the first time frame in which results are seen. “Wrinkles do not appear overnight and they are not going to disappear overnight. Consistency and patience are key,” he says.