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Agatha Christie once said, “Trains are wonderful.” They certainly came in handy for her, providing her with the inspiration for Murder On The Orient Express.
I knew all about the mystique of traveling on a night train, which is the setting for the BBC drama Nightsleeper, specifically about a chaotic and crazy journey from Glasgow to London.
But you don’t need to experience similar mishaps. Simply go to bed in one place and wake up in another.
Here’s how to enjoy some of the best routes in Europe.
CZECH: FROM BRUSSELS TO PRAGUE
The European Sleeper offers trains three times a week between Brussels (pictured) and Prague.
Tom says: “The operator’s motto is ‘The Goodnight Train’ and the emphasis is on comfort with beds with duvets and quality bedding.” Shown above is one of the ‘cheapest berths’ on the train.
European Sleeper is a Belgian-Dutch cooperative founded last year and now operates trains three times a week between Brussels and Prague, with stops in Antwerp, Rotterdam, Amsterdam, Berlin and Dresden. The operator’s motto is ‘The Goodnight Train’ and the emphasis is on comfort with beds with quality duvets and linen. They give you a bottle of water and a continental breakfast with a hot drink. There are also sinks, but the bathrooms are next to the hallway.
The carts are sleek and made of knurled stainless steel; Originating in the United States in the 1950s. Three-tier bunk compartments can be booked privately for 1 or 3 people, or there are cheaper bunk beds that sleep 5 or 6 people. Take a Eurostar London-Brussels to continue your journey. Or join in Rotterdam, after taking a ferry to Hoek van Holland.
Dining car: Yes, but not in all services. Three course meal including pumpkin soup, schnitzel and cheesecake £27. Reservations are required.
The best: Romantic antique carriages.
Schedules: It leaves Brussels at 7:22 p.m. and arrives in Prague at 10:56 a.m.: 15 hours and 34 minutes, traveling about 630 miles.
How to do it: Sleeper compartment for two from £350; or £132 per person sharing a six-berth bunk (europeansleeper.eu).
CALEDONIAN BEDROOM: FROM LONDON TO SCOTLAND
Enjoy the beautiful highland scenery on the Caledonian Sleeper train, linking London and Scotland.
One-way fares are from £310 for two people in a ‘Classic’ compartment or £350 for two people in a ‘Club’ compartment with bunk beds.
It runs between London Euston and Fort William, Inverness, Edinburgh, Glasgow and Aberdeen (with other stops).
One-way fares cost from £310 for two people in a ‘Classic’ compartment or £350 for two people in a ‘Club’ bunk compartment (from £425 for two people in a double bed compartment).
Trains run daily in each direction, leaving between 7:50 p.m. and 11:45 p.m., depending on the route, and arriving between 7:07 a.m. and 9:57 a.m. There are beautiful mountain landscapes (sleeper.scot).
ROLLING IN ROMANIA: BUDAPEST TO BUCHAREST
The Carpathians (above) are a highlight on the Ister sleeper train between Budapest and Bucharest.
For an intriguing journey from the capital of Hungary to the capital of Romania, hop on the Ister sleeper train. ‘Ister’ in Roman means Danube, and this trip runs towards the Black Sea.
Budapest’s Keleti Station has an ornate façade with a prominent statue of our railway pioneer, George Stephenson. On board the Caile Ferate Romane trains don’t expect anything too sophisticated: the compartments are tiny, with imitation wood paneling and narrow beds with duvets. A sink is hidden under a folding table.
The highlight is admiring the Carpathian landscape between Brasov and Bucharest, according to railway guru Mark Smith of Seat61.com.
Dining car: None. However, there is a kiosk/bar offering sandwiches (£1.70), wine (£2.50) or beer (£2.90).
Schedules: It leaves Budapest at 7:10 p.m. and arrives in Bucharest at 11:30 a.m.: 11 hours and 20 minutes, traveling about 505 miles.
How to do it: Sleeper compartment for two from £146, or £40 sharing a six-berth berth (bileteinternationale.cfrcalatori.ro); put ‘Bucuresti’ for Bucharest.
NORWEGIAN NIGHTS: FROM TRONDHEIM TO BODO
For a pleasant journey any time of year, take the SJ Norge night train between Trondheim, Norway (pictured) and Bodo.
This is an especially good walk in summer, when it is light until the early hours of the morning and you can see the Norwegian fjords and mountains passing by. But the trip is enjoyed at any time of the year.
SJ Norge operates a daily dormitory, with standard seats, ‘Premium Plus lounge seats’ (with more recline) and sleeping compartments. The latter have two single beds with good quality bedding, water bottles and sinks; The bathrooms are at the end of the hallway. You also get free coffee/tea.
Trondheim is an elegant fjord-side city, while Bodo is a smaller city with a thriving arts scene. Both are fantastic for seeing the Northern Lights.
Dining car: Yes, a cafe serves light meals such as potato salad with salmon (£13) or pizzas (£12). But beware: wine costs £10, beer £9 a glass.
Schedules: It leaves Trondheim at 11:05 p.m. and arrives in Bodo at 9:05 a.m.: ten hours, covering some 435 miles.
How to do it: Sleeper compartments from £144, Premium Plus from £82, Standard from £60 (sj.no).
NIGHT RIVIERA: FROM LONDON TO CORNWALL
“The Night Riviera is a brilliant way to get to Cornwall with stops at Liskeard, Par, St Austell, Truro and St Erth (for St Ives),” Tom says of the GWR service, pictured above.
Light breakfasts are included in the price of a Night Riviera compartment (left), which Tom says “come with beds with good bedding.” The train also has a lounge car with snacks and drinks (right)
Departing Paddington at 22:30 and arriving at 7:54 in Penzance (or at 21:15 or 21:45 in the opposite direction, arriving at 6:45), the Night Riviera is a great way to get to Cornwall with stops at Liskeard, Par, St Austell and Truro. and St Erth (for St Ives).
Light breakfasts (bacon rolls or cereal) are included with compartments, which have beds with good bedding. There is also a lounge car with snacks and drinks. Use of the station lounge is included. Compartments from €166 for two (gwr.com).
ITALIAN WORK: FROM MILAN TO SICILY
Tom comments: “The sleeper journey from Milan to Palermo is known as Intercity Notte.” Upstairs – Palermo
You may be wondering how a train crosses the Strait of Messina from mainland Italy to Sicily. The answer is: by ferry train.
This sleeper trip from Milan to Palermo (although a shorter version is possible from Rome) is known as Intercity Notte, with compartments for 1 to 3 passengers, plus berths for up to six. The ‘Superior’ compartments have small rooms with bathrooms, while the cheaper ‘Relax’ compartments only have sinks. A continental breakfast and a hot drink are served. Expect great coastal scenery.
Dining car: None. But there is also a soft drink cart and food vending machines.
Schedules: Departure from Milan at 8:10 p.m., arrival in Palermo at 4:55 p.m.: 20 hours and 45 minutes, traveling about 1,600 kilometers.
How to do it: ‘Relax’ sleeping compartments for two people from £215; bunk beds from £60 per person (trenitalia.com).
EXPRESS NIGHT JET: FROM VIENNA TO VENICE
All aboard: the Nightjet train will take you overnight to Vienna, Paris, Brussels, Amsterdam and Berlin.
The sleeping compartments, as shown here, offer “maximum comfort”, according to the Austrian Federal Railways (OBB).
LEFT: Travelers can purchase drinks and snacks on Nightjet trains. RIGHT: A private bathroom on the Nightjet train
The Austrian Federal Railways (OBB) has moved ahead of other national rail operators in Europe by investing heavily in a fleet of Nightjet sleeping cars. You can travel between Vienna and Paris, Brussels, Amsterdam and Berlin, among other routes, although a popular “classic” is the one between the two Vs: Vienna and Venice.
The sleeping compartments offer “maximum comfort,” says OBB. Upon arrival you will receive a complimentary glass of sparkling wine and a breakfast with hot drinks and a selection of hams and cheeses. This is a great way to cross the Alps into Italy.
Dining car: Yes, and you can order food. Paprika chicken (£11), glass of wine (£3), beer (£3).
Schedules: It leaves Vienna at 9:39 p.m. and arrives in Venice at 8:34 a.m.: ten hours and 55 minutes, traveling about 350 miles.
How to do it: Bed from £300 for two; or bunk bed from £100 per person (oebb.at).
