In a scene worthy of the TV series Succession, a jet-black helicopter streaks across the sky to land on the deck of a gleaming white superyacht called Dreams. Owned by Greek shipping billionaire George Prokopiou, the 350-foot ship is often seen anchored off Glyfada, a beach in the heart of the Athenian Riviera.
While many of us are drawn to Greece’s countless islands, this 40-mile stretch of pine and sand, stretching south from Piraeus to Cape Sounion, offers a different but equally enticing proposition.
These coasts are no strangers to glamour. In the early 1960s, what was then known as Asteria, the Greek word for “star,” attracted another local shipping magnate, Aristotle Onassis, who would come here with the American-born Greek soprano Maria Callas.
Today, the Athenian Riviera is experiencing a renaissance that began four years ago with the debut of the Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel in Vouliagmeni. This improved and expanded an elite getaway dating back to 1959.
There is now a new post-pandemic energy as new hot spots open up this summer.
Nigel Tisdall says the Athenian Riviera, a 40-mile stretch of coastal land, is undergoing a “renaissance”
Ancient and modern: Nigel stays at One&Only Aesthesis resort on Glyfada beach
Further north, Ellinikon, site of the former Athens airport, is the largest urban regeneration project in Europe. Passing by the construction site, I can understand why it has been called “Dubai on the Mediterranean.”
Once completed, it will feature the 650-foot residential Riviera Tower, which will be the tallest building in Greece, along with a 400-berth marina, a casino, a coastal park and three hotels, including one by Mandarin Oriental. While that brilliant dawn is still a few years away, the wealth, beauty and high society that define any successful riviera are already very evident at the One&Only Aesthesis resort on Glyfada Beach.
Here, low-rise bungalows and residences with mid-century interiors are framed by magnificent gardens planted with wildflowers and desert grasses. Chic hosts in pale mint uniforms offer butler service via WhatsApp, while three pools are worthy of a Slim Aarons photo shoot.
Nigel reveals summer nightly rates at One&Only Aesthesis start at £1,613
Nigel remembers jumping from a speedboat into the ‘bewitching blue sea’
If there are complaints, it would be the lack of privacy of some rooms and the shallow depth of the water – you need to walk a long way to swim properly.
So who stays at an ultra-luxury resort where summer nightly rates start at £1,613? “We get a lot from the UK,” says CEO Yann Gillet, who worked in Cannes on the French Riviera.
After almost a decade of austerity and reforms, the Greek economy is recovering and tourist arrivals are expected to hit a record this year. Wealthy Athenians flock to enjoy a £111-a-head Sunday brunch with live music and a bountiful buffet of oysters, charcoal-grilled lamb and almond cake drizzled with honey. The Greek capital is just a 30-minute drive north, with favorable traffic and a wealth of ancient sites and museums, it’s impossible not to have a rewarding time.
Athens, home of the Acropolis, is just a 30-minute drive north of the Riviera.
No visit is complete without a climb to the 2,453-year-old Acropolis, with a 360-degree view of the capital. It doesn’t matter if you are one of the 23,000 daily visitors (less crowded after 5pm), as it is a true wonder of the world.
Back at One&Only Aesthesis, there’s plenty to enjoy after a hard day of sightseeing, from mango margaritas to a serene Guerlain spa. Families have a free kids’ club offering art classes and youth Olympic games.
Dinner could be at Manko, a Peruvian-style beach club opening next month, or if you’re in the mood to party, take a taxi south to Vouliagmeni and the beachfront restaurant Papaioannou.
The other essential is to get out on the water, cruise the Saronic Gulf to snorkel alongside the island of Aegina or simply stop at a cove and then jump off your speedboat into that mesmerizing blue sea.
When I climb back on board, feeling refreshed and elated, a handsome crew member is ready and waiting with a plate of strawberries and a glass of Greek sparkling wine. I imagine Mrs. Callas experienced something similar.
