Manhattan is officially saying goodbye to an iconic Midtown French restaurant, which is closing its doors for good as rising costs and inflation continue to wreak havoc on the hospitality industry.
La Grenouille, located on East 52nd Street, has attracted a slew of notable Hollywood bigwigs since it first opened in December 1962.
But Wednesday marked the end of an era.
Owner Philippe Masson took to Instagram to announce its closure, stating that he was “moving on to explore new ground and pursue other dreams” and adding that “a tremendous amount of love and dedication went into making La Grenouille such an iconic destination.”
The luxury restaurant was born 62 years ago in the middle of winter, during a snowstorm and a newspaper strike. From that day on, it began to have a loyal following.
La Grenouille, an iconic restaurant on 52nd Street in Midtown Manhattan, is known for its old-school New York dining and celebrity sightings, but it will officially close its doors.
The restaurant was the sole survivor of a plethora of French restaurants that burst into New York in the 1960s and quickly became a staple of the city.
Since its opening in 1962, Hollywood superstars have regularly dined there. In March 2011, Blake Lively had a dinner there in her honour, organised by Chanel.
Frank Sinatra, Elizabeth Taylor, Mick Jagger, David Bowie, Rod Stewart, Prince, Madonna and Elton John were just a handful of stars who brought their glitz and glamour to this long-standing institution.
Its red and gold ambiance, magical floral arrangements and timeless dishes secured the restaurant’s position as a New York classic.
It was the sole survivor of a plethora of elegant French restaurants that burst into the heart of Manhattan in the 1960s, ultimately cementing the city’s reputation as a place for luxurious and sophisticated dining.
But now, a once-fabulous restaurant, filled with mirrored walls and oil paintings, has a crumbling outdoor dining room, a sad reminder of a trendy New York dining society that is slowly dying.
Daniel Boulud, renowned Michelin-starred chef, told the The New York Post‘La Grenouille was a benchmark of French gastronomy, with its elegance, charm, cuisine and old-fashioned service that no other restaurant could imitate. It is very sad to see it close.’
The dining experience was sophisticated: mirrored walls, red and gold ambiance, and handmade floral centerpieces added to the old-school vibe.
Actress Anjelica Huston (pictured with Wes Anderson) attended La Grenouille for a Louis Vuitton celebration in 2007
Elsa Pataky and Adrien Brody also attended the Louis Vuitton celebration in 2007
Jason Schwartzman and Brady Cunningham in La Grenouille in 2007
Family problems, building maintenance issues and a five-month closure last year made for tough times.
But its disappearance highlights not only the highly competitive nature of the city’s restaurant industry and the changing trends of the 21st century, but also the problems facing the industry nationwide.
The consequences of the pandemic, inflation and rising costs are the perfect storm for a gastronomic disaster.
More than 40 bars and restaurants closed in New York City from December 2023 to January 2024, according to New York Dining Room.
“Something happened to the casually uncasual restaurant.” Grub Street reported. ‘It has always been possible to eat out on the cheap in New York, and it has always been possible, with some ingenuity, to eat out on the cheap.’
The restaurant seemed immune to the changing trends of the 21st century and maintained classic French dishes throughout its long history.
Actress Kim Cattrall attending a lunch at La Grenouille in 2011
Private events and dinners were common, including a celebration of the women’s brain health initiative in 2019.
“Nowadays it is difficult, if not impossible, to get by on less than $100 per person.”
Those who dine casually on occasions such as anniversaries and birthdays are reconsidering their decisions, with inflation being the clear culprit.
Insurance, rent, renovations, cost of materials and Covid have created a new normal for a once bustling industry.
While there was little demand for restaurants during the lockdown, menu prices rose. When it was no longer considered a national emergency, costs rose as people returned to eating out.
But as time went on and other expenses began to decrease, the menu prices never changed.
“The view from within the industry is not that prices are too high now,” one industry veteran told Grub Street. “It’s that they were too low before.”
“Before COVID, the industry was in a really precarious financial situation. Things were at a critical point.”
The daughter of Spanish racing driver Alfonso de Portago, Andrea, and famous interior designer Kitty Hawks, were photographed in short skirts in front of the iconic New York restaurant.
High prices are normal: you can expect to spend a minimum of $180 when dining at La Grenouille
But in a city where someone else would be needed… 22 years old Eating out at any restaurant, the industry’s distress is more pronounced in other parts of the country.
In the American heartland, where there are fewer people and lower household incomes, nearly every restaurant is feeling the pressure of empty seats.
Jessica Dunker, president and CEO of the Iowa Restaurant Association, said the reason restaurants are closing is because the cost of produce has increased 30 percent and they are having to shell out higher wages to keep staff.
Dunker also noted that many food companies are struggling to repay loans they took out during the pandemic.
A total of 1,932 restaurants went bankrupt in 2023, a 45 percent increase from the previous year, according to Online restaurant.
And there may be many more closures to come.
