This liberal, mountainous city in Northern California is home to some of the world’s most iconic attractions, from the Golden Gate Bridge to the prison island of Alcatraz.
But despite having more billionaires than anywhere else in the US (it’s just a half-hour from Silicon Valley), it’s surprisingly affordable, and cheap public transportation makes exploring incredibly easy.
WHERE TO STAY
Queen Anne Hotel
Antique furniture crammed into every corner of this charming 19th-century Victorian mansion-hotel near Japan Town (queenanne.com). Breakfast and afternoon tea (think sherry and homemade biscuits) are included and most of its 48 rooms (from £150) feature soaking tubs and wooden sleigh beds. The hotel goes all-in on Christmas decorations, so come in November or December for a festive treat.
Here’s our budget travel guide to San Francisco, USA, where you can book the best hotels for under £150 a night.
citizenM
With plenty of books, board games and TVs, the ground-floor lounge-bar of this centrally located hotel is designed to entice guests out of bed. That said, the rooms are modern, with pink balloon dogs, red cushions and electronic features (lights, alarm clock, blinds, etc.) controlled via an iPad. There’s also a gym and a rooftop terrace.
Prices start from £150 with a buffet breakfast at £16 per person. www.citizenm.com/hotel/sanfrancisco.
Cartwright Hotel
This liberal, mountainous city in Northern California is home to some of the world’s most iconic attractions, including the Golden Gate Bridge (above) – if you bike across it, you might even spot dolphins.
The rooms at this centrally located Best Western hotel (bestwestern.com) may be cosy, but they are clean and comfortable, with powerful showers (from £94). There is free tea and coffee on the ground floor, where there are chess boards and giant four-in-a-row games on tables by the fireplace. The 1913 building overlooks Union Square, so ask for a room at the back if you don’t want to be disturbed by the sound of trams.
Garrett Hotel
With rooms costing £70 a night, this elegant and simple hotel (hotelgarrettsf.com) across from the US federal building (where Nancy Pelosi has an office) is a bargain. Its 121 comfortable, recently renovated rooms are well thought out and feature plenty of USB outlets and coffee makers. The location is also good, a ten-minute walk from Union Square and close to the Opera House, the subway and San Francisco’s historic cable cars.
WHAT TO SEE AND DO
Boat trip around the bay
The Blue & Gold fleet offers a 60-minute cruise that begins at Pier 39, where the sea lions rest, and takes you under the Golden Gate Bridge and around Alcatraz Island (pictured).
The best way to appreciate San Francisco’s mountainous landscape is from the sea. The Blue & Gold fleet offers a 60-minute tour with guided commentary. It begins at Pier 39 (where the sea lions rest) and sails under the world’s most photographed bridge, the 1.7-mile Golden Gate Bridge. Then it circles the prison island of Alcatraz. The strong Pacific current made it impossible for the prisoners to escape—although many tried!blueandgoldfleet.com)
Cycle across the bridge
Feel the vibrations of the Golden Gate Bridge by pedaling on it (unlimitedbiking.com/san-francisco). The 11-mile bike tour begins at Ghirardelli Square (home of the oldest chocolate factory in the U.S.) and ends in the beautiful city of Sausalito. Stop at the bridge to watch dolphins. The bikes are yours for the day. You can either bike back or hop on the ferry.
Historic Cable Cars
Take the Powell-Hyde Cable Car to Lombard Street, shown here, to experience the world’s crookedest street.
Buy a one-day trolley pass for £12 and ride San Francisco’s iconic trolleys up and down the hills as often as you like. Make sure to hop on the Powell-Hyde line and get off at Lombard Street so you can walk down (or up) the world’s crookedest street. Then, visit the Trolley Museum (free) to marvel at these vintage trolleys and their mechanics. It’s the only transport that runs on a cable system rather than an engine.cablemuseum.org).
Driverless taxi
San Francisco is one of the few places where self-driving taxis are available. Grab one of these robot cars (via an app) and head to the top of Coit Tower Hill for great views of San Francisco. But be warned, there is a six-month waiting list for taxis.
WHERE TO EAT
Z&Y
Head to Z&Y restaurant in Chinatown (pictured) to try Chef Han’s famous tea-smoked duck.
The moment you approach you’ll realize why this no-reservations-required Chinatown restaurant has a long line (restaurantzandy.com). Chef Han (who has cooked for presidents) is famous for his tea-smoked duck (£28), but his vegetables are on another level. Order the dry stir-fried green beans, stir-fried Chinese cabbage and honeyed cherry tomatoes and take a bag for leftovers.
Dolphin Pizzeria
The ingredients at this upmarket Italian restaurant are all locally sourced. The owner even has his own farm. Pie-shaped pizzas and orange-sized meatballs (£16) are on the menu. Order sides of pumpkin and Brussels sprouts (both £11 with a spicy kick) and wash them down with the restaurant’s own Californian Chardonnay from Sonoma Valley.pizzeriadelfina.com).
Miller & Lux Steakhouse
Steaks are not cheap at this celebrity chef’s restaurant (millerandluxrestaurant.com) in the Mission District, but they’re really good. The melt-in-your-mouth 10oz filet mignon in bordelaise sauce (£62) is big enough for two and the creamed kale is a delicious alternative to spinach. Or head to the restaurant’s new outposts in Union Square. Their rotisserie chickens and salads are a perfect, cheaper takeout option.
From Scoma
Don’t forget to visit Scoma’s dock-to-plate fish restaurant, pictured above, which is a celebrity favorite—Nicolas Cage, Brad Pitt, and Jennifer Aniston have all dined here.
Come in daylight (or at dusk) to appreciate the waterside setting of this dock-to-plate fish restaurant, a celebrity favorite—Nicolas Cage, Brad Pitt and Jennifer Aniston have all dined here.escomas.comThe steaming £9.50 cup of clam chowder is enough for lunch, but if you have room, treat yourself to the Combo Louis salad (packed with shrimp and crab) or the fish and tomato stew called Lazy Man’s Cioppino.
GET THERE
America as you like it (americacomotegusta.com/020 8742 8299) offers tailor-made trips to the USA. A 7-night stay on a bed and breakfast basis at the Queen Anne Hotel costs from £1,415 per person (two people sharing a room) including return flights from London with Virgin Atlantic. More information: es.sftravel.com; visitcalifornia.com; citypass.com/san-francisco.
