Although no one would describe it as a thing of beauty, it was nonetheless a fascinating sight: a ten-decker ocean liner the size of a block of flats amid yachts and fishing boats in a small, historic Cornish harbour.
That was the sight that greeted Fowey residents when they opened their curtains on Saturday morning.
Shortly afterwards, the 1,250 passengers (mainly German) aboard the 58,000-ton, Portuguese-flagged Vasco da Gama were taken ashore for a brief taste of Cornwall. In an instant, the local population increased by 50 percent.
However, there was no avalanche of complaints to the port authorities.
In fact, the locals seemed delighted to see the cruise passengers, as I discovered for myself when I turned up in Fowey later that day.
Cornish charm: Robert Hardman visits pictured Fowey, a “historic” Cornish seaside town where residents seem “delighted” to welcome international cruise ships
Arrival of a giant: Robert watches as passengers aboard the 58,000-tonne, Portuguese-registered ship Vasco da Gama (pictured) were taken ashore for a glimpse of Cornwall.
It was not the first time a cruise ship had entered the city in reverse (there is not enough room to turn around, so these ships are towed backwards), but it is a rare occurrence and the ship was already on the next tide.
Fowey still talks about the day another super-sized ship, the 60,000-ton Spirit of Adventure, operated by Saga Cruises, visited last September.
Big ships are good for local commerce. It is true that some passengers hop straight on a bus to the Eden Project and just buy a fridge magnet before getting back on board in time for the all-you-can-eat buffet.
However, port charges are high and Fowey enjoys a healthy increase in visitor numbers as tourists from miles around flock there to enjoy the drama and spectacle.
Robert says the town “manages to convey a sense of timelessness and charm, without being cheesy or artificial” and “has a thriving warren of period houses, cottages and shops, including several first-class bakeries.” The picture shows the pier
“Fowey has soul and substance,” says Robert. “Daphne du Maurier wrote her books here.” The author’s house (with blue shutters) is pictured on the right.
I highly recommend a visit at any time. Unlike some Cornish stalwarts, Fowey has soul and substance. Daphne du Maurier wrote her books here (note the pretty cottage by the Bodinnick ferry) and still has family in Fowey.
Its deepwater port not only means it can accommodate ships such as the Vasco da Gama, but it remains a working port exporting Cornish china clay all over the world.
Fowey was also a centre of D-Day operations. It has a thriving warren of period cottages, houses and shops (including several first-class bakeries), plus boats, boats and more boats.
There are a handful of traditional hotels right by the water and some charming holiday cottages and apartments.
I stayed at Marners Rock, pure Cornish charm on the outside, plus style and modern comforts on the inside.
This picture shows the charming harbour at Fowey. Robert says: “There are a handful of traditional hotels right on the water and some lovely holiday homes and apartments.”
Robert comments: ‘Just around the corner, in places like Lantic Bay (above), there are plenty of beautiful, uncrowded beaches.’
Just around the corner, at places like Lantic Bay, there are plenty of lovely, uncrowded beaches. The big event this month has not been the cruise, but this week’s annual regatta. Fowey is decked out in bunting, while there are bands, fireworks, a carnival and a procession through the streets, including the world’s largest Cornish pasty.
It manages to be timeless and charming, without being cheesy or artificial, and also friendly.
As the Vasco da Gama hoisted her massive anchors and set out to sea on Saturday afternoon, locals lined the Esplanade to wave, and the Royal Fowey Yacht Club’s horn sounded in a warm farewell.
