Ditching shampoo and conditioner — and using just water on your hair — is a fad that has gone in and out of fashion over the past few years.
Under the hashtags #noshampoo or #nopoo on social media, the trend originally appealed to environmentally conscious women looking to minimize the number of beauty products they used.
But the latest wave of devotees comes from a different demographic: teenagers and young men, who are going without shampoo in the hopes that it will help them keep their hair thick and healthy.
They are inspired to give it a try after seeing their peers tout the benefits on social media.
Kainoa Lam (@kainoalam), who said: “After I started going without shampoo, my hair became thicker, more textured and started to smell better. »
Kainoa Lam (@kainoalam) said: “After I started going without shampoo, my hair became thicker, more textured and it started to smell better.”
Another example is Humza Islam (@humza.islam), who has many videos on his TikTok channel dedicated to the #noshampoo method.
In a video he claims it results in: “No more greasy/oily hair, no more irritation or itching, no allergic reactions to ingredients” and he claims it can “repair dandruff, dandruff and dryness” and make hair “easier to comb.” ‘.
However, dermatologists warn that this approach could actually make scalp problems worse, and instead of slowing hair loss, it could stunt hair growth.
“This approach is based on the theory that if you simply wash your hair with water, your scalp will adapt and produce exactly the right amount of oils to keep your hair in optimal condition,” says Dr. Angela Tewari, dermatologist specializing in hair care. , based in London.
“But I can’t find any evidence that that’s the case.”
“Plus, your scalp and hair accumulate dirt, oils, and sweat — and to remove them effectively, you need surfactants (aka cleaning detergents). Water alone will not remove this dirt and oil.
Experts suspect this trend is partly because, in the past, shampoos designed to treat oily hair tended to be very astringent.
This means they have stripped the hair and scalp of all oils, which can cause the scalp to overproduce oil to compensate and the hair to feel dry.
“But shampoos these days are not harsh,” says Dr. Tewari. “They use gentle surfactants that remove dirt and oil without harming the scalp or hair.”
Anabel Kingsley, a trichologist based at the Philip Kingsley Trichology Clinic in London, adds: “Using the products that suit your hair texture and provide the right levels of moisture to your hair doesn’t have to be stripping.
“If regular shampoo makes your hair dry, you’re using the wrong shampoo.”
Social media posts have also sparked distrust of common ingredients found in shampoos.
“But there’s nothing wrong with the surfactants and sulfates (a type of surfactant) found in shampoos today,” says Dr Anastasia Therianou, a dermatologist and scalp specialist based in London.
“They keep the hair and scalp clean and don’t strip away all the oils.”
Even though some products are marketed as sulfate-free, she says, “the only reason you should avoid sulfates is if you’re allergic to them — and that’s really quite rare.”
So rare that there is no published data on it. Experts say most hair and scalp problems can be resolved by using the right shampoo and washing more frequently.
Humza Islam (@humza.islam) offers dozens of videos on his TikTok channel dedicated to the #noshampoo method
Still, some TikTok videos claim that ditching shampoo could help with scalp issues.
However, they often don’t differentiate between dry scalp, which could be caused by using the wrong shampoo, and dandruff, which is caused by yeast.
And, in fact, far from improving the condition of the scalp, giving up shampoo can make it worse, explains Dr. Therianou. “If you don’t clean your scalp properly, the microbiome, or the collection of bacteria and fungi that live on the scalp, can become unbalanced,” she says.
“This is when a yeast called malassezia can overgrow. Malassezia causes dandruff because the yeast feeds on the oil produced by your scalp and this process releases a byproduct that irritates the scalp.
Just as you wouldn’t wash your face with just water or brush your teeth without toothpaste, you should apply the same thought to your hair and scalp, writes Claire Coleman.
“The result is redness, inflammation and peeling.” This requires treatment with an antifungal shampoo.
Other scalp conditions, such as seborrheic dermatitis (which is similar to dandruff), eczema and psoriasis, can also worsen if your scalp is not cleansed.
This is because they rely on medicated shampoos and regular washes to keep them under control.
There are also rumors online suggesting that shampoo can cause hair loss.
Some claim that chemicals in shampoos make hair dry and brittle, leading to breakage.
“Contrary to many misconceptions, regular shampooing will not cause hair loss or further shedding,” says Anabel Kingsley.
“These hairs are already detached from their blood supply at the follicle and shampooing them simply dislodges them from the follicle.”
“It is normal to lose 80 to 100 hairs per day.”
For those worried about hair loss, giving up shampoo might be the worst thing you can do.
“Conditions that cause an itchy scalp can mean people scratch and break hair at the root,” says Dr. Therianou.
“But also, if sweat, oil, and dirt are blocking the follicles, you may find that hair isn’t growing as efficiently as it could.”
And even though many #noshampoo fans continue to use styling products – such as waxes and creams – it only makes things worse.
“Any product that contains an oil or wax will require some form of detergent to remove it from the hair. Water alone won’t do the job,” says Dr. Therianou.
It’s a bit like trying to clean a greasy baking dish with just hot water and no dishwashing liquid: it won’t work.
Ultimately, as Anabel Kingsley says, “you get your hair and scalp to the same places as your face, and they get just as dirty.”
And, just as you wouldn’t wash your face with just water, brush your teeth without toothpaste, or wash your clothes without detergent, she says, you should apply the same thinking to your hair and your scalp.