Going six miles per hour was pure pleasure. Especially since, standing at the controls of our cabin cruiser, I had to choose between three settings: slow, slower, and stop.
The day before we had boarded the overnight ferry from Portsmouth to St Malo with our two sons, Noah, 11, and Hector, eight. “It will be an adventure,” I promised them.
Our destination was Messac, just two hours away by car, where we took possession of our houseboat and began a family holiday along the canals of Brittany.
Messac is a medieval town at the center of an extensive network of canals that weave an enchanting web throughout the region.
The idea was to explore La France Profonde and read improved novels. Our children, meanwhile, will delight in the bucolic charms of the countryside.
Pure pleasure: Ticky Hedley-Dent enjoys a boat holiday on the canals of Brittany with Le Boat
Before the holidays, Ticky wonders how his two “spirited boys” will get through “all those scary locks.” In the photo: A section of locks on the Nantes to Brest Canal, part of the family’s trip
But how would two energetic children manage in a small space? What happens if they fall overboard? Never mind going through all those scary locks. But we had a secret weapon on board: we had invited our friend Dave, who is a former canal laborer.
Messac is the home of Le Boat, a company that operates a fleet of pleasure cruisers, and it was here that Francois introduced us to our six-person boat. Measuring just 12m long by 4m wide, it contained everything we needed: three cabins with bathroom, a lounge and a well-equipped galley.
Francois chose to direct all his instructions to my husband, Dan, in a display of Gallic chauvinism. Still, his tutorial didn’t take long.
Ticky begins his tour in the medieval town of Messac, before heading to Redon (pictured)
Above, the “elegant” 17th-century half-timbered houses of Redon
When we faced our first lockdown, our new knowledge was put to the test. Dan ushered us in while the boys kept watch. It was Dave and I’s turn to stand at each end of the boat and throw the mooring ropes to the lock keeper. Then, once the chamber had emptied and the doors opened, we were able to move on. Very easy!
At the end of our first day, we found that our shoulders had lowered and we could enjoy the scenery. As evening fell, we saw an otter swimming.
Our itinerary would take us in a leisurely circle westwards to the pretty town of La Gacilly, full of stone cottages and winding streets. We will sail along the Vilane River, enter the Nantes à Brest canal and the Aff River, before returning to Messac.
Shape of the boat: Ticky, with her husband Dan and sons Noah, 11, and Hector, eight.
Brittany’s extensive canals are the legacy of the Napoleonic Wars. Because the British Navy had blockaded French ports, the canals became the only way to transport supplies.
An ambitious building program followed, with many canals dug by prisoners of war.
The leisurely pace of life on the water allowed us to truly appreciate the charms of the countryside. At that time we were not busy saying hello. They are very friendly, the people of the channel. We soon became accustomed to the etiquette of greeting other boaters, cyclists and pedestrians on the towpath.
Difficult stops in the town of La Gacilly (pictured), which is “all stone cottages and winding streets”
We had a complaint. Popular destinations like La Gacilly could quickly become saturated. Show up late and you risk not getting a position.
Our first stop was the old port of Redon, with its elegant 17th-century half-timbered houses. We dock to stock up at the supermarket.
One of the trickiest moments was finding a tight spot on La Gacilly, but Dan managed it with the help of a friendly French couple on the boat next door.
That afternoon we explored the city and attended its photography festival before beginning our return trip through the Aff.
Our best night was spent on Ile-Aux-Pies, a beautiful place known for its steep cliffs and islets.
We tied up before sunset, lit the barbecue and, sipping the local white wine, watched the climbers scale the granite cliffs.
Our best memory? A leisurely lunch at La Belle Vilaine in Sainte-Anne-sur-Vilaine, where the owner, Laurent, served us prawns, mussels and lamb, and sauvignon blanc from his vineyard.
Back in Messac, preparing to say goodbye to Brittany, we all agreed that it had indeed been an adventure. And to top it all off, an otter came out to take a bath at sunset.
