Glitz and glamor dominated the start of Melbourne’s Spring Racing Carnival, and as thousands of punters flocked to Flemington Racecourse over the weekend, many were asking about one blonde in particular.
A stylish attendee made the black-and-white Derby Day theme her own by fusing the world of racing couture with a certified microtrend on TikTok and on the runway.
Emily Gurr arrived at Derby Day wearing a stylish take on the denim aesthetic that left the expensive looks of many celebrity attendees in the dust.
The cowboy and cowgirl aesthetic has been trending since March, when Taylor Swift kicked off her seemingly endless Eras Tour.
Although the Western wardrobe style has never completely disappeared, the ‘Swift Lift’ saw the humble cowboy boots and hats enter the mainstream in a whole new way.
But it’s a trend that’s easier said than done.
With abundant design options and color combinations for hats, boots, and collared shirt combinations, there’s a fine line between looking modern and intentional and looking like you’re late to a Halloween party.
So who is Emily and how did she manage to bend the famously strict rules of racing fashion without breaking them?
Emily Gurr arrived at Derby Day wearing a stylish take on the denim aesthetic that left the expensive looks of many celebrity attendees in the dust.
Emily Gurr is a model and creative director with a large social media following.
On Saturday, she rocked a black Armani suit paired with knee-high Jimmy Choo riding boots, a black and gold bolo tie, and carried a black leather Miu Miu bag.
The pièce de résistance, however, was a custom-made cowgirl hat by Australian milliner Nerida Winter.
The respected racing apparel designer created a half-dozen headpieces for the Derby Day event, but proudly posted three photos of her work with Emily on the grid.
“The moment one iconic woman meets another,” Winter captioned, also writing, “So in love with Emily Gurr rocking the perfect blend of masculine and feminine energy.”
Emily left her blonde locks for the occasion and sported a full face of glamorous makeup, while also leaving the bottom half of her suit shirt unbuttoned to flaunt her midriff.
Emily wore a black Armani suit paired with knee-high Jimmy Choo riding boots, a black and gold bolo tie and carried a black leather Miu Miu bag.
In a recent interview with fashion book Harper’s Bazaar, the model-turned-entrepreneur said opening Beverly Rooftop bar in Melbourne “has been a lot of fun.”
“It’s been a lot of blood, sweat and tears, but it’s taken me out of my comfort zone.”
The Sydney-born model has amassed 108,000 followers on Instagram, where she shares her outfits, often ’70s-inspired but modernized.
He lives between Harbor City and Australia’s cultural capital, where he currently runs the Californian-themed cocktail bar overlooking the Melbourne skyline.
The pièce de résistance, however, was a custom-made cowgirl hat by Australian milliner Nerida Winter.
Emily (centre) pictured on Derby day with TV personality Saskia Wotton
The origins of the black-and-white Derby Day custom are controversial, but it remains one of the strictest dress codes of all racing seasons.
One of the most popular theories is that it emerged on the other side of the pond, more than two centuries ago, in 1787, the Earl of Derby’s horse won the race wearing the black and white colors.
Some others believe that the issue began in 1910, when King Edward died, and in true Edwardian style, racegoers exchanged their best clothes for the black of the mourners.
It is also possible that an advertisement in the Australian Women’s Weekly, around 1960, started the tonal dress code.
In collaboration with whiskey maker James Buchanan and Co and to celebrate their Black & White whisky, Melbourne Cup attendees were offered the chance to win a £200 wardrobe prize (the equivalent of over $7000 today in day) for the person with the best outfit on the field.
However, there was a problem: attendees had to dress in black and white.
Modernizing or modifying traditional rules about race day attire is a complicated process.
It could mean you take home the fashion prize and bragging rights, or just as easily you are denied entry because your outfit is deemed “inappropriate.”
Just take it from British model Jean Shrimpton, who infamously wore a scandalous (by 1960s standards) DuPont mini dress for Derby Day.
Its hem was 13cm above the knee, surprisingly without stockings, gloves or hat.
The move was considered scandalous at the time, although the model said it was not.see what was wrong with my appearance.”
“I feel like Melbourne is not ready for me yet,” he added. “It seems to be years behind London.”
This year alone, fashion marketplace Depop saw a 15 percent increase in the number of users searching for “Western” items.
They are cowboy and cowgirl boots, wide-brimmed hats, fringes and lots of leather.