At Svostrup Kro, a 19th-century inn that straddles the green banks of Denmark’s Gudenaen River, guests arrive by car, bike, kayak and paddleboard to order its most popular dish.
The name of the Stjerneskud is an open sandwich. If you look closely, you will find a slice of bread under the tower of shrimp, crispy fried flounder, smoked salmon curls, cod roe, white and green asparagus, tomatoes, cucumbers, mayonnaise with mustard and a sprig of dill.
It’s hearty enough to feed a Viking, but then again, exploring Denmark’s Lake District, tucked away in the heart of mainland Jutland, is hungry work.
They don’t call it “Denmark’s outdoor capital” for nothing. In this beautiful, virtually untouched wilderness with a mosaic of freshwater lakes, one quickly succumbs to the call of nature.
Rent a mountain bike and hit the forest trails, join a guided hike along countless lakeside paths, or rent a kayak and play “fantasy holiday house” as you paddle past some of Denmark’s most luxurious lakeside properties.
Fiona McIntosh travels to Denmark’s ‘outdoor capital’, tucked away in the heart of mainland Jutland. She visits pictured Lake Almindso, ‘one of Denmark’s cleanest freshwater lakes’.
Fiona likes to eat the region’s most popular dish, an open-faced Stjerneskud sandwich, seen here (file image)
The good news is that all this healthy Scandinavian action is easily accessible from the UK.
After a 90-minute flight from London to Billund, I rent a car and spend a relaxing hour wandering through flat agricultural country, passing small villages with picket fences and honesty boxes selling eggs and strawberries, until I reach the district centre, Silkeborg.
This pretty resort town has a number of reasonably priced small hotels and guesthouses starting from as little as £49 a night (you won’t be paying Copenhagen prices), although I managed to get a room at the recently opened New Hattenaesa glorious lakeside retreat just outside Silkeborg.
Silkeborg, seen here, is a “nice resort town” with an “area of small, reasonably priced hotels and guest houses,” says Fiona.
Silkeborg, above, was built in the late 19th century in a forest overlooking the Brasso lake network.
Built in the late 19th century in a forest overlooking the Brasso lake network, this traditional wooden retreat had fallen on hard times. But a meticulous renovation by a family of Danish designers means it now exudes understated, glamorous, Great Gatsby-style charm, with a fine restaurant, spacious terrace bar and 14 rooms, all with lake views.
From the hotel, take an easy 40-minute walk along the river path to Silkeborg or simply step onto the pier at the end of the garden and wait for Hjejlen, the world’s oldest original coal-fired steamship, to drop you off in town.
This hop-on hop-off service is a fabulous way to see the lakes as you cruise past grand summer houses, through dense forests and around bird-filled islands. I take the boat on a loop to Himmelbjerget (Sky Mountain), where I meander through fields of wildflowers and wild oaks to the summit.
Fiona comments: ‘I take the boat on a loop to Himmelbjerget (pictured), where I meander through fields of wildflowers and wild oaks to the summit.’
Outdoor swimmers will also enjoy the walk to nearby Almindso, one of Denmark’s cleanest freshwater lakes. It’s also a triumph of Danish design. Circular wooden walkways extend into the lake, forming two pools: a shallow one for small children and a deeper one for everyone else.
After taking a dip (it’s so cold that it’s bearable even in summer), I relax on the small sandy beach to warm up and feel terribly Scandinavian.
If you have time, it is also worth spending a couple of nights in the port of Aarhus, an hour’s drive from Silkeborg.
This quaint, artsy town with cobblestone streets, irresistible cafes and bakeries is also home to Denmark’s imposing ARoS Art Museum, one of Northern Europe’s largest contemporary art galleries showcasing Danish and international artists. Take the elevator to the top for 360-degree views of the city through rainbow-coloured panels.
Wherever you walk in Aarhus, you are reminded of Danish design genius, from the cluster of homeware stores and fashion boutiques in the backstreets of the Latin Quarter, to the spectacular cantilevered roof garden and bars atop the Salling department store.
Aarhus (pictured above) is an hour from Silkeborg and features Danish design, simple food and rooftop gardens.
But for me, the biggest revelation of all is the quality of the food. While Copenhagen is famous for its extreme dining experiences at Michelin-starred temples like Noma and Alchemist, here in Aarhus the food is simpler, less expensive but equally delicious. There is almost a national obsession with using local and seasonal ingredients, sourced from the rich land, lakes and sea that surround them.
At the Mefisto brasserie in Aarhus’s Latin Quarter, I try their exquisite version of the Stjerneskud open-faced sandwich.
Then, to take it a step further, I try the tasting menu at the excellent Haervaerk restaurant, where I go full Danish and indulge in ox tongue schnitzel, grilled wolffish and pulled venison. This extraordinary luxury dining experience will set you back £62 per person for nine courses.
If you’ve always wanted to visit Denmark but have been put off by its legendary prices, Denmark’s little-known Lake District is a smart, cost-effective and refreshing way to dip your toe in the (bracing) waters.
