But a few words about oxygen. Basically, the device pumps pure air (79 percent nitrogen, 20 percent oxygen) into the coffee instead of worrying about nitro cartridges. This is great, but oxygen exposure is the known enemy of fresh-tasting coffee. After the nitro evaporated, side-by-side taste tests showed flacrier oxidation flavors in the nitro than in the basic non-nitro.
But straight out of the machine, this doesn’t show up much. What you notice are fun, invigorating bubbles that also add to the perceived sweetness. Those bubbles cover many sins and create a dense head on a cold beer that seems to everyone like a well-poured Irish stout.
A WIRED editor, looking at a photo of Cumulus’ plentiful nitro, jovially suspects a trap. “I could swear they used Guinness for the promotional photos,” he wrote.
The espresso is also effervescent, endowed with a thick and authentic crema, formed thanks to the pressure exerted by the device’s powerful compressor. It was Cumulus espresso’s own natural foam that led to my beautifully foamed martini, a result that eluded me with hot and cold espresso.
Big shout out to Virginia-based cocktail educator and consultant Josh Seaburg Model Citizen Cocktailsfor a good espresso martini recipe to try these things. For the record, this involved 1.5 ounces of vodka, 0.75 ounces of coffee liqueur like Mr. Black, and half an ounce of simple syrup, mixed with one ounce of cold brew espresso. Mix, shake, pour. The device only produces double shots, so one pod provides enough cold brew espresso for two cocktails.
Who is Cumulus for?
On the one hand, the Cumulus is an impressive piece of engineering, succeeding on multiple fronts where other device makers have failed.
But it’s not a device for coffee snobs. It’s best suited for those who value the convenience of a Keurig and aren’t too picky, or those who naturally load their cold brew with milk and sugar or other flavors. Cumulus redoubles its bet with flavored syrups ranging from Piloncillo de Naranja to Canela Demerara.
Photography: Cumulus