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What is it like to travel to countries that are firmly on several governments’ “Do Not Travel” lists?
From Afghanistan to Somalia, adventure travel company Untamed borders organizes trips to many of the world’s most “interesting and inaccessible” countries. Many of its trips take place in countries that are listed among the world’s most dangerous destinations in the Global Peace Index 2024.
MailOnline speaks to James Willcox, the company’s founder, to find out what awaits travellers in some of the world’s most unlikely holiday destinations.
And you might be surprised. Read on to see what adventure travel is like in Libya, Somalia, Iraq, Yemen and Afghanistan…
Libya
Untamed Borders offers tours to Libya, with the Roman city of Leptis Magna (above), described as an “incredible Unesco site”, as one of the stops.
Untamed Borders travels to Ghadamis (pictured above), near the Algerian border in Libya, which James describes as a “classic desert town” and a fantastic place to experience “Berber culture.”
Why is it dangerous?
A civil war broke out in Libya in 2011 when rebel groups attempted to overthrow the country’s leader, Muammar Gaddafi. A second conflict broke out in 2014 and many governments, including those in the United States and the United Kingdom, have since advised against travel to the country due to the “fragile security situation”. Libya is ranked 27th among the least peaceful countries in the world according to the Global Peace Index.
What to see
James comments: “We have a lot of restrictions on where we can go in Libya due to geopolitics, so we can’t go south at the moment. But we can visit Tripoli, where there are two incredible Unesco World Heritage sites: Leptis Magna and Sabratha.” Founded in 1000 BC, Leptis Magna was one of the most impressive cities of the Roman Empire, while Sabratha was another ancient Roman metropolis. Untamed Borders also travels to Ghadamis, near the Algerian border, which James describes as a “classic desert town” and a fantastic place to experience “Berber culture.”
The biggest surprise
James says: ‘In a lot of the places we travel to, including Libya, the rate of robbery and violent mugging is actually very low. It’s not like in a city in South or North America, where you have to be very careful with your purse and wallet. So a lot of the time, even though there are risks, people go there and feel very relaxed, very normal and everyone is very friendly.’
Somalia
Mogadishu, Somalia’s capital (pictured above), is the only destination Untamed Borders visits that requires constant armed security.
James says: ‘The Laas Geel rock paintings in Somaliland (pictured above) are of a style not seen anywhere else and are really cool.’
Why is it dangerous?
Somalia has suffered violent turmoil since the overthrow of dictator Siad Barre in the 1990s and several governments advise against travel to most of the country. It ranks eighth among the world’s least peaceful countries according to the Global Peace Index. Somaliland, an unrecognised breakaway territory in the north, has its own government, police force and currency and is considered more stable than Somalia.
What to see
James says: ‘Somaliland has a much better security situation and is a really good place to get out and see traditional nomadic culture. The Laas Geel rock paintings in Somaliland are in a style you don’t see anywhere else and are really cool. People also like to go to Mogadishu (the capital of Somalia) and that’s the only trip we do where we have armed security for the whole trip. If you travel there, you get two vehicles with a security team.’
The biggest surprise
James says: “Somalia was one of the first countries to use online banking. About five years ago, more people in Somalia were using online banking than in any other country in the world. You could walk into a very small shop and not pay with cash. This is because a lot of the country’s infrastructure was damaged during the war, so people had to rely on their mobile phones for many everyday functions.”
James adds: “Even in a really remote area, there is this kind of strange but surprising use of technology.”
Iraq
James says: ‘Karbala (pictured above) is one of the holiest cities in the world for Shia Muslims and an incredible pilgrimage site to witness’
Untamed Borders organizes an annual ski trip to Kurdistan in northern Iraq (pictured above are members of a group)
Why is it dangerous?
US forces invaded Iraq in 2003, leading to the overthrow of dictator Saddam Hussein. The country has suffered several conflicts since then, including the rise and fall of ISIS. Many governments, including those in the UK and the US, advise against travel to many parts of Iraq. The country is ranked 10th among the least peaceful countries in the world according to the Global Peace Index.
What to see
James says Iraq has an “amazing ancient history” due to its position as the centre of the Islamic world. The Iraq Museum in Baghdad has Assyrian artefacts dating back to 1350 BC.
James adds: ‘Najaf and Karbala are two of the holiest cities in the world for Shia Muslims and are incredible pilgrimage sites. In the south are the Marshes, a huge wetland area the size of Wales. In the north are the mountains of Kurdistan, where Untamed Borders organises a ski trip every year.’
The biggest surprise
James says: “Overall the situation in Iraq is improving, of course, starting from a fairly low level. Things are going in the right direction, there is a bit more security, a bit more peace. The guides we work with who travel around the country see more roads and infrastructure being built.”
Yemen
In this image, guests are taking photos in Yemen, although James says there are many areas the company “wouldn’t take people to” due to the ongoing conflict.
Socotra Island, off the coast of mainland Yemen (pictured above), is “really very beautiful,” says James
Why is it dangerous?
The civil war in Yemen has raged since 2014, when Houthi forces took over the capital, Sanaa. Many governments, including those in the United Kingdom and the United States, advise against travel to Yemen. The country ranks second in the Global Peace Index.
What to see
Because of the ongoing conflict in Yemen, James says there are many areas of the country that Untamed Borders “wouldn’t take people to.” However, the tours do go to Socotra, an island off the coast of Yemen.
Flights depart from Abu Dhabi, meaning tourists can avoid entering mainland Yemen, although James says there is “always a risk that those flights could be stopped overnight”.
He added: “It is often described as the Galapagos of the Middle East and has many endemic and indigenous plants. It is really very beautiful. If you get on a boat, you will see all these spinner dolphins diving through the waves.”
The biggest surprise
Despite the active war zone, tour groups are still able to visit eastern mainland Yemen, which is “quite removed from the conflict.”
James says one of the most interesting places to visit is Shibam. Known as the “Manhattan of the desert,” this ancient mud city is made up of incredible high-rise buildings that were built to protect residents from the hot climate.
Afghanistan
Bamiyan (pictured above) is one of James’s “favorite places in Afghanistan” and was once an important trade route between India and China.
This image shows visitors in southern Afghanistan. James says many people “feel like they know Afghanistan” from seeing it on the news, but can be surprised once they are there.
Why is it dangerous?
Afghanistan has seen periods of turmoil since the 1970s. Following the withdrawal of US troops in 2021, the Taliban returned to power and several governments, including those of the United Kingdom and the United States, advise against travel to Afghanistan. The country is ranked as the least peaceful in the world in the Global Peace Index.
What to see
James says: ‘One of my favourite places in Afghanistan is Bamiyan, in the centre of the country. It’s where the giant Buddha statues were before the Taliban blew them up in 2001. It was on the main trade route between India and China 1,500 years ago and was not far from being the Dubai or Hong Kong of its day. And now it’s not that important geopolitically, but it’s got that history and people still hold it together.’
The biggest surprise
James says: “Like in Iraq, people often feel like they know a little bit about Afghanistan because they’ve seen it on the news. Places like Kabul or Kandahar. And you’ll drive past places like Bagram Air Base (the site of a car bomb attack in 2019) or look out of your hotel window and think, ‘20 years ago, I saw bombs falling there on the news.’ You feel like you know it from the news, but you don’t actually know much about everyday life there and that can surprise people.”
Global Peace Index rankings are correct at the time of writing.
