Airline meals are a hot topic – and it’s no wonder. When they hit their mark, they’re a stress-relieving treat – especially for those crammed into the economy – and when they don’t, they can leave travelers with bitter memories of their getaway.
Some flyers might reasonably wonder why they can’t hit the mark every time. A lack of attention to the science of airline meals by the catering company may be one reason.
Of course, there is an element of science in the kitchen at ground level, but even more so in flight, for the strange things that happen to the senses of taste and smell of passengers on aircraft at altitude must be taken into account.
Here, we reveal everything to you, including which meals work well during flights – and which ones don’t.
HOW OUR SENSE OF TASTE AND SMELL CHANGE DRAMATICALLY IN FLIGHT
Airline meals are a hot topic – and it’s no wonder. When they hit their mark, they’re a stress-relieving treat – especially for those crammed into the economy – and when they don’t, they can leave travelers with bitter memories of their getaway.
Lufthansa (above) has conducted extensive research into the science of aircraft food
According to research for Lufthansa by the Fraunhofer Institute, Artemis Aerospace noted in a recent blog post, salt is perceived to be between 20-30% less intense and sugar 15-20% less intense at high altitude, and overall nearly 70% of passengers’ sense of taste is lost.
This is due to a combination of factors, including the decibel level of engine noise and the sub-12% humidity level, which rivals a desert atmosphere.
Artemis added: “As if that weren’t enough, the low cabin pressure also lowers blood oxygen levels, which means your olfactory receptors, which play a vital role in smell perception, become less sensitive.”
Highlighting how essential our sense of smell is, Artemis Aerospace explains that around 85% of what we think of as “taste” is actually due to our sense of smell. He adds: “So when people accuse airline food of being bland, that might not be an entirely fair assumption.”
TYPES OF FOOD AND DRINK THAT WORK ON PLANES
Lufthansa said: “Usually stews and curries perform well under low pressure conditions, as the spices remain ‘taste stable’ under low pressure when reheated”
Professor Charles Spence from the University of Oxford’s Crossmodal Research Laboratory has worked closely with the airline industry on dishes that work and don’t work at altitude.
He told MailOnline Travel that ‘umami foods’ are ideal – ‘so tomatoes, anchovies, mushrooms, aged cheese etc, all rich sources of umami, will probably work well in the air”.
And because onboard ovens dry food, meals usually need to come with plenty of sauce, says Professor Spence.
German carrier Lufthansa said: “Usually all stews and curries work well under low pressure conditions because the spices – eg ginger, cumin, cinnamon, chilli, paprika, cardamom etc. – remain “flavor stable” under low pressure when reheated. It is not necessary to increase the amount of spices in the usual recipe.
Professor Charles Spence told MailOnline Travel that ‘umami-forward foods’ are ideal airline deals – ‘so tomato, anchovies, mushrooms, aged cheese etc., all rich sources of umami, are likely to work well in the air”
Private aviation company VistaJet accepted.
It said: “Generally all curries travel well. As they are sauce-based, they are very easy to reheat in the microwave or oven on board the plane and the flavor, rich in spices, remains unchanged.
VistaJet also serves pasta.
Usually all stews and curries work well under low pressure conditions, as the spices remain “taste stable” under low pressure when reheated
He continued: “Spaghetti, or pasta in general, travels well, especially if reheated properly. At VistaJet, for example, we heat pasta in a 300 degree oven in foil to a point where we’re careful to “reheat just right”, not overcook. The best pasta to eat? A lovely tomato sauce, pure umami, mixed with the fat of the mozzarella in the pasta creates a hot and delicious dish to enjoy on any flight.
Lufthansa agrees, further revealing that the pasta should be of good quality and care should be taken when sprinkling with herbs.
He said, “First of all, sturdy, high-quality pasta should be used. Penne is probably the most durable. If you are using creamy sauces, it is important to only use fresh herbs as dry herbs develop a “hay taste”. Here, the amount of herbs in the “normal” recipe must be increased – or even doubled – to achieve the same taste profile as at ground level.
As for the drinks, he reveals that the Bloody Mary works because it gives you “an umami kick.”
And high altitude wines also come with an expert recommendation.
Professor Spence said: ‘Interestingly, you’d probably be better off going for a more fruity New World number, even better if it’s from a vineyard at altitude, as you find with many wines. chileans. A suggestion here is that the wines will have been created at a similar atmospheric pressure, equivalent to 5-6,000 feet above sea level, as in a typical airplane cabin.
Professor Spence also recommends “fruity” craft beers.
FOOD AND DRINKS THAT DO NOT WORK ON PLANES
Lufthansa serves Brussels sprouts sparingly due to ‘strong odor development’
Professor Spence has some tips for airline sommeliers.
He said, “Old World wines that are tannic don’t necessarily taste so good at altitude.”
And parmesan cheese is potentially dangerous because it has a sweaty sock aroma.
Professor Spence said: ‘One might want to avoid Parmesan – although it is an excellent source of umami – given that one of the main volatile chemicals is shared with sweaty socks.’
Lufthansa identified rice-based risottos as underperforming, citing that “they become dry and sticky when reheated”. He added: “However, replacing the rice with alternatives such as barley makes the dish suitable for airline catering.”
Cauliflower dishes are unlikely to be served by airlines – because they have a pungent smell
An example of a VistaJet menu offered on a Paris-Los Angeles flight
Lufthansa also explained why it is careful with certain vegetables, adding that “Brussels sprouts, cauliflower and sauerkraut should only be used sparingly” due to “strong odor development”. Plus, he says, “they’re also harder to digest than other vegetables.”
VistaJet, meanwhile, has added oysters and duck breast to the list of hazardous materials.
It said: “Oysters are a real taste of the sea, but for health and safety reasons we do not serve them on board as the correct temperature cannot be guaranteed from kitchen to service. Instead, consider a selection of light and healthy sushi or sashimi. Earthy, punchy condiments will work wonders at altitude.
“And the duck breast in plum sauce is a classic, but in the air it struggles to deliver mouthfeel and flavor. At altitude, the chest becomes dry, the skin loses its elasticity and can taste musty.
