Even before taking off, a stag party is happily making its presence felt on board our Jet2 flight from Manchester. Tenerife’s bold, boozy image is clearly alive and well and sits two rows in front of us as we head to the largest of the Canary Islands.
However, after a week of cycling coastal routes, cautiously guiding our rental car along hair-raising mountain roads and stopping in unassuming towns, it’s clear that Tenerife doesn’t deserve such a reputation.
Sure, places like the resort of Playas de las Américas are constantly inundated with Brits toasting their pink lobster skin, and it’s easy to see why, given that even in winter the average temperature hovers around 22°C (72°F). What’s more, it is only a four and a half hour flight away.
But we are here to find the authentic soul of the island.
We will stay between the coastal towns of San Blas and Los Abrigos at the Barceló hotel, which seems to be embedded in the rugged volcanic landscape of Tenerife. It’s a sprawling, low-rise complex, with flowers and plants everywhere and plump cacti sprouting along winding paths.
Bags of style: In search of the “hidden” side of Tenerife, Angela Epstein explores the luxurious coastal town of Costa Adeje (pictured)
As if by osmosis, our fellow guests, many of whom are British, seem to absorb the tranquility. Poolside chatter barely rises above murmur; Otherwise, all we hear is the sound of the pages turning from Robert Harris’ latest blockbuster.
Across the street is the hotel’s nature reserve: a lunar landscape of crunchy rocks and lava formations sculpted over thousands of years by an insistent wind. It’s perfect for hiking, as many guests do, and is especially entertaining at night, as we discovered when we joined the Barceló’s resident astronomer for a stargazing session.
This is Tenerife nightlife in its truest sense.
Imposing: Ángela stops in the city of Candelaria, home of the imposing Basilica of Our Lady of Candelaria (pictured)
Above, one of the nine statues of ancient kings that line the Candelaria boardwalk.
To explore the area we rent bikes and ride to banana plantations and along quiet waterside paths, stopping at the small marina of San Blas to catch our breath.
Later, in our rental car, we will discover a multitude of more remote natural areas, the most popular of which is the Teide volcano. The base is packed with tourists, so although we (eventually) ride to the lower summit on the cable car, it’s only to take a few obligatory selfies. It’s a relief to escape and take a slow walk through the Teide National Park, which surrounds the peak. It is vast and otherworldly thanks to its spectacular rock formations; It’s no surprise that movie classics like Clash of the Titans and the original Planet of the Apes were filmed here.
Discovering hidden Tenerife does not mean that we have to be completely antisocial, just exploratory. If anything, we want to find places where locals gather.
And those we chat with are warm, welcoming and eager to dispel the stereotype about their beloved island. (“If you want the real Canaries,” the lady behind the car rental counter tells us, “then look in the mountains and the towns, not the bars that sell beer.”)
That’s why we explored the coastal town of Candelaria, home to the imposing Basilica of Our Lady of Candelaria, which, among its intricate marble work, houses a stunning black Madonna.
Angela drives slowly through Teide National Park (seen here). “It’s vast and otherworldly thanks to its spectacular rock formations,” he says.
Angela believes that the university town of La Laguna (pictured) has “a large number of pedestrian streets, churches and 15th century architecture.”
In Candelaria’s huge main square, locals linger over ice cream and exchange lively chats in rapid-fire Spanish (we didn’t hear a single voice in English). All this under the inscrutable gaze of nine bronze statues, ancient kings of Tenerife, fixed on the boardwalk.
Another day we visited the university town of La Laguna, once the capital of Tenerife and now a Unesco World Heritage Site with a wealth of pedestrian streets, churches and 15th century architecture. What’s more, there are some lovely cafes (my gluten-intolerant husband almost died of joy when we found a cafe and bakery dedicated exclusively to wheat-free products).
Back at sea level, there are miles of coastline to enjoy. We stop in the small town of El Médano, a paradise for local surfers, boogie boarders and sun worshipers, and, from the beach, follow a narrow path through the wetlands to easily climb the dormant Montaña Roja volcano.
El Médano (seen here) is a “haven for local surfers, boogie boarders and sun worshipers,” writes Ángela
There are areas of bustling Tenerife that remain decidedly chic despite the number of tourists. No less important is Costa Adeje, a luxury resort town on the south coast where the prom is dotted with chic cafes and restaurants, while the open market allows the purchase of a variety of fake designer bags.
“With its color, this Chanel bag looks very good, my lady,” a salesperson tells me. It’s tempting… but I resist.
At the end of the day, this getaway to Tenerife was about enjoying the authentic article.