A new trend of fine dining restaurants forcing customers to order expensive meals at the counter is spreading across the states.
‘Counter-cuisine’, as it has been called, is when diners line up to order their entire meal (starting until they finish with drinks) and then pay before even sitting down.
Despite skipping the table service step, restaurant customers are still expected to leave a generous tip in addition to the price of the meal.
While this system is normal for a low-key lunch spot or casual restaurant at the lower end of the price scale, American restaurants have begun using the counter method for menus where items cost more than $40 and fine wine It is sold by the bottle (although you have to pour it yourself).
Despite the informal ordering system, food at these places is usually served on formal plates and proper cutlery.
Birdie’s in Austin, Texas, is one of the places that takes the casual, high-end restaurant customer service approach to ordering (pictured: TikToker Olivia Adriance at Birdie’s)
Birdie’s in Austin, Texas, is one of the pioneers of this paradoxical high-end restaurant that combines a casual approach to customer service.
“We treat the counter like the first interaction in a fine-dining restaurant,” said Arjav Ezekiel, co-owner and beverage director of Birdie’s. Wall Street Journal.
Birdie’s periodically changes its menu, but currently the restaurant serves a tiny filet for $36 and a rockfish plate for $34, both of which can be ordered at the counter.
The restaurant offers a selection of small plates ranging from $14 to $24, snacks from $7 to $13, and desserts for around $14.
A glass of wine costs between $14 and $28 and Birdie’s offers a wide variety of bottles from around the world.
At the counter, customers typically spend about five minutes talking to an employee who helps them pair their food choice with the right glass of wine.
The goal of this system is to create a personal connection between waiters and diners and, at the same time, slow down orders so that the kitchen does not become saturated.
At the counter, customers typically spend about five minutes talking to an employee who helps them pair their food choice with the right glass of wine (pictured: TikToker Olivia Adriance at Birdie’s).
Diners also see advantages to the system. Even if they are not served, it means they can avoid the stress of making a reservation that often comes with eating at high-end restaurants.
Customers can still call the servers if they have any questions or want to order another round of drinks.
Birdie’s opened in 2021 and management has modified its style over the years as the business has grown.
These changes included hiring more people to walk the floor and take follow-up orders rather than forcing established diners to have to wait in line again. “We’ve done more things to make people feel comfortable once they sit down,” Ezekiel says.
Marisa Bittenc-Muramoto, 34, is a project manager who has visited Birdie’s several times; She says that now she has gotten used to the system and will return to the line with her glass of wine in tow.
“You can hang out and chat,” he adds. “It’s no different than having to take a seat at the bar.”
Some customers struggle with the tipping aspect. Megan Koppenhoefer, a 44-year-old health care administrator, said, “There’s a certain awkwardness that happens when you’re already leaving that amount of tip without being served at a table.”
Other restaurants in major U.S. cities have adopted similar ordering methods. John’s Food and Wine in Chicago forces customers to order at the counter, but also provides QR codes for wine or cocktail refills.
Other restaurants in major U.S. cities have adopted similar ordering methods. John’s Food and Wine in Chicago forces customers to order at the counter, but also provides QR codes to refill wine or cocktails.
Despite being able to order raw Hamachi for $23 or duck breast for $47, the restaurant still uses the fast food style of service.
Adam McFarland is co-owner of the restaurant; He said the team has been perfecting the model since they opened in 2023.
McFarland said both owners, who are also chefs, make it a priority to tour the restaurant’s dining room each night, and diners are served by the chefs or sommelier.
A popular restaurant in the Los Angeles Arts District also uses a similar ordering system. Diners at De La Nonna, a restaurant that does not take reservations, are greeted by a host who takes them to their table and then returns to the front of the restaurant where orders are taken at a counter.
John’s customers have mixed feelings about this unique dining experience. Coabi Kastan said that at first she was worried, but now she visits him weekly and she finds the method especially useful when she wants to enjoy good food but can’t be bothered to make a reservation.
Mariana Suárez said ordering good, high-quality food at a counter makes her feel rushed and she would prefer to mull over the menu for a while. “You don’t necessarily have time to do that,” Suarez, 24, said.
A popular restaurant in the Los Angeles Arts District also operates on a similar system.
Diners at De La Nonna, a restaurant that does not take reservations, are greeted by a host who takes them to their table and then returns to the front of the restaurant where orders are taken at a counter.
De La Nonna offers good quality food at reasonable prices, including pizzas for under $20 and elegant starters like tuna tartare for $17.
The restaurant offers good quality food at reasonable prices, such as pizzas for less than $20 and fancy starters like tuna tartare for $17.
Due to the lack of service, the company requires fewer employees, which means they are paid more and receive benefits such as health insurance.
“We have a smaller team, so everyone makes more money,” said Lee Zaremba, who opened De La Nonna in 2021.
