Many people, myself included, have been completely wrong about Rouen. I used to think that, getting off the ferry, it was a useful stop while racing towards the south of France. Too often the irritating phrase “seen, done” has been applied to what is actually one of the most interesting and charming French cities.
My first brief visit, many years ago, did not go well, mainly due to an absurd attempt by the French authorities to be more welcoming to foreigners. We were given tokens called ‘cheques-sourire’ (smile checks) to give to those who provided friendly service, allowing them to enter a prize draw. I still remember the looks of horror after handing them to the shop owners… I had never heard ‘merde’ pronounced with such bitterness.
This time everything was forgiven. The smiles were genuine and, despite it being January, the weather was mild, almost all the restaurants were open and Rouen was establishing itself as a major year-round tourist centre.
My wife Mary and I were in great spirits. We were celebrating our 55th wedding anniversary and wondering once again why we had decided to get married in January.
Nostalgia decided that we would travel on the ferry from Newhaven to Dieppe, as we did on our honeymoon all those years ago. Eurostar was then nothing more than a twinkle in the eyes of those who dreamed of a Channel Tunnel.
On a visit to Rouen, John Sergeant visits the city’s impressive cathedral (pictured)
The four-hour journey, with strong winds, did not discourage us and a smiling taxi driver with a large car took us to Rouen in no time. Our hotel, the four-star Hotel De Bourgtheroulde, like much of the old town, has its origins several hundred years ago. It was severely damaged by bombing in the Second World War, but has been skilfully restored, incorporating parts of the old building into the modern structure.
On our first night, we found ourselves in the old market square, enjoying the impression of Rouen as it was in medieval times. The narrow, winding streets offer views of half-timbered houses that look like a Hollywood set for a Robin Hood movie. The real history in this Normandy capital is never far away.
We visited a traditional restaurant conveniently located on a street named after William the Conqueror. He died here, as King of England, 21 years after the Battle of Hastings.
John and his wife Mary photographed in Rouen, celebrating their 55th wedding anniversary
Above, the couple in Paris in 1969 during their honeymoon.
And that’s not the end of the British connection. As I shamelessly savored the traditional calf’s head dish, I remembered that long after the Norman Conquest it was in this square that the English forces burned the beautiful maiden of France, the great Joan of Arc, at the stake. But it would have been a terrible mistake to let history ruin a good dinner. And Rouen is one of the great gastronomic centers of France.
I always want to taste local dishes and I can’t resist Steak Tartar or kidneys in mustard sauce. Mary is more restrained, but she can easily be tempted by snails in cream sauce or garlic butter.
We are both also passionate about architecture and art, which abound in this city. So the next day we walked to Rouen Cathedral, a Gothic masterpiece. Defying gravity, its soaring nave reminds us that it was French architects who first gave the world these tall, sharp, pointed windows that show light through painted glass.
John says Rouen’s half-timbered houses (pictured) look like a ‘Hollywood set for a Robin Hood movie’
John stays at the Hotel De Bourgtheroulde, whose origins date back several hundred years.
Rouen also occupies another firm place in art history. When trains began plying the short distance from Paris, artists with their new portable equipment, easels, and paint tubes quickly followed the Seine River to Rouen.
Claude Monet was one of those who caused the greatest impact with his famous series depicting the West Door of the cathedral.
One of them is exhibited in the Museum of Fine Arts along with an excellent collection of impressionist paintings.
The last day we walked along the Seine. Upstream is Paris and Rouen is the last deep port before the capital. It is here that for many summers tall ships from all over Europe moor for the Armada festival.
And when we left the next day, we looked at our nearest bridge and who is it named after? Oh yes, of course, William the Conqueror.