Home Travel My stay at a five-star hotel in the ski resort was rated “the best in the world.” This is how it is and my score

My stay at a five-star hotel in the ski resort was rated “the best in the world.” This is how it is and my score

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Ted Thornhill checks into the five-star Altapura hotel in Val Thorens, France

With its panoramic window overlooking the resort and mountains, mezzanine double bed and freestanding bathtub, there’s something almost cinematic about our rooms at the five-star Scandi-chic Altapura hotel in Val Thorens.

Surely there is enough space in the living room for a film crew.

That’s why it’s a great tic for the bedroom.

And big ticks for almost everything else in the hotel.

The property occupies a prime slice of real estate with direct access to the ski slopes at the 2,300 m (7,545 ft) high resort, the highest in Europe and declared the best ski resort in the world nine times, including by 2024/ 2025, and it is something of a mini wonderland, a feeling that is helped by the tree trunks that rise from floor to ceiling thanks to the elevators on the ground floor.

Then there’s the beautiful lounge, generously adorned with comfy ’70s-style chairs and sofas, and enhanced by an inviting circular bar, for post-piste refreshment and sharing stories of mountain-themed exploits.

The spa is also magnetic, drawing guests in with its stunning indoor and outdoor pool and ice-filled igloo room.

For my daughter, this part of the hotel is possibly the highlight of the property, even surpassing the kids club.

Ted Thornhill checks into the five-star Altapura hotel in Val Thorens, France

The photo above shows the hotel's indoor and outdoor pool, which is part of a spa complex

The photo above shows the hotel’s indoor and outdoor pool, which is part of a “magnetic” spa complex.

The outdoor section of the hotel pool, which is great fun for young and old.

The outdoor section of the hotel pool, which is great fun for young and old.

The dining options, meanwhile, are stellar.

There’s an elegant Italian Casa Alta and a brilliant Alpine-themed restaurant, La Laiterie, the hotel’s hub for raclettes and fondues.

The cheese here is top-notch and warms cockles. And the wine is also worthy of applause.

Breakfast is served in a more informal space, with plenty of windows offering great views of the mountains.

Altapura offers a good variety for the first meal of the day, although the eggs for ‘eggs and soldiers’ (l’oeuf à la coque) are a total failure: they are clearly undercooked. (The chef forgets the rule of four minutes and 20 seconds to obtain the perfect, runny yolk.) And trying to get a cup of coffee involves a game of Pac-Man with the staff, wandering between tables until you bump into one of them to place an order.

Altapura occupies a prime slice of real estate with direct access to the ski slopes in Val Thorens, declared nine times the best ski resort in the world.

Altapura occupies a prime slice of real estate with direct access to the ski slopes in Val Thorens, declared nine times the best ski resort in the world.

At 2,300 m (7,545 ft), Val Thorens, surrounded by six glaciers, is the highest ski resort in Europe.

At 2,300 m (7,545 ft), Val Thorens, surrounded by six glaciers, is the highest ski resort in Europe.

THE JOY OF REACHING THE FRENCH ALPS BY TRAIN

Don’t even think about flying. Or drive.

There’s only one really fun way to get to Val Thorens: by train.

Eurostar runs a ski train service to the French Alps leaving London St Pancras International on Saturdays and returning on Sundays, changing trains at Lille.

If booked, take a Eurostar to Paris and then a TGV from Gare de Lyon.

Choose any of the services and you will have the pleasure of watching the French mountains unfold before your eyes from the comfort of a large, comfortable seat. With legroom.

The train winds through stunning valleys covered with waterfalls, castles and green meadows.

The Val Thorens station is Moûtiers-Salins-Brides-Les-Bains, generously hyphenated. From there, it’s a fascinating transfer over the hairpins to a ski resort that really deserves a beating.

But here’s the thing: the staff here are constantly enthusiastic, cheerful and charming, and walk briskly, so that mistakes don’t bother you.

And there are a few more: At Casa Alta, the staff loses track of our progress and offers dessert menus before we receive our main course. Oops.

And we have to ask them to clean our room and make our little one’s sofa bed.

The hotel's attractive circular bar,

The hotel’s attractive circular bar, “for post-piste branch restoration and sharing stories of mountain-themed exploits.”

He

The “beautiful living room is generously adorned with comfortable 70s-style chairs and sofas.”

Stunning mountain views are standard at Altapura

Stunning mountain views are standard at Altapura

1734963347 9 My stay at a five star hotel in the ski resort

“I suspect we and our fellow guests feel the same: desperate to return,” Ted writes.

Possible irritations, but these small problems in the process are solved quickly and with a smile, and that is often all that is needed to complete the personalized return.

And I suspect we and our fellow guests feel the same: desperate to return.

We spent our last hour at the hotel sunbathing on the lounge’s spacious terrace, eating delicious croque monsieurs and taking in the epic scenery of Val Thorens.

Cinematic from start to finish.

TRAVEL DATA

1734963348 988 My stay at a five star hotel in the ski resort

Ted was welcomed by Altapura and the Val Thorens tourist office. Visit es.altapura.fr and www.valthorens.com.

Rooms at Altapura cost around £400 ($500) per night.

Advantages: Amazing rooms, great location, happy staff, great food, fun pool.

Cons: The service could be a little better.

Hotel rating out of five: ****

GET THERE

The best way to get to Val Thorens from the UK is via Eurostar, which offers a ski train service to the French Alps leaving on Saturdays and returning on Sundays.

It stops at Chambéry, Albertville, Moûtiers-Salins-Brides-Les-Bains (towards Val Thorens), Aime-la-Plagne and Bourg-Saint-Maurice. Visit www.eurostar.com/uk-es/train/france/ski-train#Journey.

If booked, take a Eurostar to Paris and then a TGV from Gare de Lyon.

Eurostar fares from London start at £39 each way on Standard or £70 on Plus.

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