The Mayans believed in many gods. They were also highly literate, architecturally advanced, and developed a mathematical system that included one of the first examples of zero.
Today, in its ancient heartland of Yucatán – and especially along the Caribbean coast near Mexico’s restive Cancún – the cult focuses on one thing and one lucrative thing only: tourism. Mathematics is all about the end result.
Most of the architecture isn’t exactly subtle, but what an extraordinary stretch of coastline it stretches for almost 100 miles, dotted with huge, mostly all-inclusive hotels sunk in powdery white sand.
It feels like a Las Vegas-on-Sea experience with a pinch of Dubai to me. And what makes this whole confection so extraordinary is that, until the 1970s, the iguanas, egrets and herons practically had the place to themselves.
My first stop is the all-inclusive Grand Palladium Costa Mujeres Resort & Spa, about half an hour north of Cancun. In reality, there are three hotels – one only for families – within the same large complex and with nearly 1,300 rooms.
There are shops, a theater, artificial lakes, about 20 restaurants, a Roman Catholic chapel, a convention center, a Rafa Nadal tennis center and a large spa.
Most of my fellow guests are Americans. ‘Where are you all from?’ asks a man wearing a T-shirt that says “I’m an American by Choice” to a group of 40-somethings.
“Chicago,” one of them answers. ‘Excellent. Let’s meet for a drink, guys.
On a visit to Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula, Mark Palmer stays at the all-inclusive Grand Palladium Costa Mujeres Resort & Spa (pictured)
Mark takes a day trip to Tulum (pictured), home to Mayan ruins and natural swimming holes.
But where? There are 25 bars dotted around the site, and the most popular is the adults-only swim-up pool, where standing in the water with a plastic cup is the main activity from midday to 8pm.
There is no pool bar about an hour south towards Tulum in Chable Maroma. This is a completely different proposition, with 70 villas built among mangroves and exotic palm trees, each cleverly hidden and all with Mayan names.
“The mangroves protect us from hurricanes,” says the man who takes me to my accommodation. Along the way, we stop at the spa and I am invited to participate in a brief Mayan ceremony to remove any lingering negativity.
It involves burning some wood, breathing deeply, and holding your hands outstretched with your palms open as if receiving a gift. Which is fitting, because my two nights here were completely ruined, aided and abetted by lovely staff, delicious food and sincere service.
One morning, during breakfast, I watch as an osprey plucks a fish from the sea and takes a triumphant flight.
During the day I swim in the warmest sea and learn from the resident biologist about the efforts being made to repair the coral on the reef, which is the second longest in the world after Australia’s Great Barrier Reef.
I’m not meant to snorkel because my ears are unreliable, but I can’t resist when there is the opportunity to explore what lies below about 400 meters from the coast. It almost seems intrusive when it disturbs the schools of luminous fish displaying all the colors of the rainbow.
Above, a local girl participates in the annual Day of the Dead festival.
Mark checks into Chable Maroma (seen here), which offers a collection of 70 villas
Divine: Chable Maroma’s spacious pool
Relations between the United States and Mexico are complicated, especially along the border. The juxtaposition is that while the US federal government tries – and fails – to stem the tide of immigrants, the incoming traffic of vacationing Americans becomes increasingly intense.
En route to Tulum on a day trip, my expert guide Silvia addresses the growing threat of Mexico’s drug cartels by saying, “When there are Americans looking to consume, there will always be people looking to supply.” It’s 43°C (109°F) when Silvia and I huddle under her umbrella in front of Tulum’s main castle, built in the early 12th century when the Mayans practiced human sacrifice. Last week, researchers discovered another lost Mayan city, which they named Valeriana, near the interior of Calakmul.
There is a lot of talk about seaweed in this area, but it is minimal during my stay, and in Chable Maroma they collect it every morning.
Mexico is famous for its cenotes (sunken pools of water) and we will stop at the Gran Cenote, not far from Tulum. I find it a disappointing experience, although the clear, cool water is instantly refreshing. There are about 8,000 cenotes in this part of the country.
On my last night in Chable Maroma, I eat in Bullo, which is in the Michelin guide.
But first I sit at the rooftop Raw Bar and watch the sun set behind the Caribbean Sea. The bartender had told me the night before that their margaritas are the best in the entire Yucatan Peninsula. I’m no expert, but the first one slides down effortlessly and the second even more so. Add to that the exquisite surroundings, with a gentle breeze courtesy of swaying palm trees, and I’m not sure how you can top this cocktail of pleasure.
