Wealthy fans of designer watches prefer old, beat-up bracelets over shiny, new watches.
Watch fans around the world choose watches that are unique or special because of their age and originality rather than their glitz and glamour.
“I like walking down the street with a watch that may not look special, but it is special,” said Jeffrey Binstock, 62. The Wall Street Journal.
The watch lover and former New York media executive said some of his most beloved watches are decades old and look that way too.
Wealthy fans of designer watches prefer beat-up vintage bracelets over shiny new watches (pictured: Jeffrey Binstock’s Rolex 8171 from the late 1950s)
The @TNSdiamonds account on TikTok recently advertised a vintage Rolex from the 1950s, which was selling for $2,000 – a bargain in the world of designer watches.
“Scratches, dents, ‘crazed’ (visibly cracked) dials, those don’t bother me at all,” Binstock said.
Antique watches that have stood the test of time often have a story to tell.
A TikTok account specializing in buying, selling and marketing luxury watches @TNSdiamonds explains the full breakdown of the pieces they sell.
The account recently advertised a vintage Rolex from the 1950s, which was selling for $2,000, a bargain in the world of designer watches.
It was a ’50s ‘bubble back’, reference ‘3, 3, 7, 2’ with a gold crown. However, the watch does not have a matching steel bezel, indicating that the crown was originally stainless steel and was replaced with a gold one or vice versa. The 70-year-old watch is for men, although it is smaller than usual.
The quirks and imperfections of the watch are what makes it interesting and gives it character. Not to mention the cheaper price than usual.
Mike Nouveau, a specialist in antique watches, has dedicated himself to collecting and explaining rare and historical pieces.
Mike Nouveau is a vintage watch expert who stopped a man on the street to point out how rare his 1979 Rolex Day-Date President with Greek day wheel and wooden dial is.
He even stops people in the middle of the street when a particularly rare watch catches his eye, as it did for Constantine Giavos, the proud owner of a 1979 Rolex Day-Date President with Greek day wheel and wooden dial.
The expert explained the rarity of the “highly specific” watch, saying that Rolex made 26 different languages, and Greek is “absolutely among the rarest,” adding that he has never seen one in person.
Nouveau revealed that such a watch would sell for more than $20,000 today due to its rarity and historical value, despite being tattered and aged.
Lovers of rich and fashionable watches find pieces that are less pristine and more worn, elegant and modern.
Christopher Bastin, 50, Swedish creative director of fashion brand Gant, wears a worn but still elegant 1970s Rolex Submariner.
“The dial flew off while I was working in the yard last year,” he said. “To me, having a watch that you have to be careful and squeamish about makes no sense.”
The immaculate condition of a Rolex can still be attractive, but a distressed version is considered a more humble approach than a shiny watch.
While watch enthusiasts choose worn watches for style reasons, it is important that the piece still serves its purpose.
Dylan Lewis, founder of Goldfinger’s Vintage in Brooklyn, told The Wall Street Journal that there are several things to consider when purchasing a vintage watch.
He said scratches, subtle dents or discoloration can provide the desired look, but cracked glass or a misshapen dial or hand “compromise the integrity of a watch.”
Experts suggest that if you want to achieve the look of a worn watch, you should look for a reliable dealer who will guide you in the right direction without overcharging you or selling you a doomed product.
Binstock has said that, for him, wearing a well-worn, elegant watch is a private luxury; only he knows its true value and its interesting peculiarities. Furthermore, he does not “scream into the wrist.”