Kris Van Assche is leaving Berluti


Kris Van Assche in 2020. Thomas Samson / AFP via Getty Images

LVMH’s Berluti says goodbye to designer Kris Van Assche, the artistic director since 2018, and will reconsider its presentation schedule in the future. His last collection for Berluti, autumn / winter 2021, was presented on April 8.

At Berluti, the Belgian designer was tasked with bringing a more fashion-oriented perspective to a brand best known for shoes, leather accessories and costumes, and to build a wider audience in Asia. He was also responsible for expanding the label’s ready-to-wear collection and redefining its identity following the departure of designer Alessandro Sartori, who left in 2016. Sartori was first replaced by Haider Ackermann, who left after three seasons.

Known for his layered draped designs and who consider Tilda Swinton and Kanye West fans to be fans, Van Assche joined the traditional luxury menswear label after 11 years of managing Dior Homme. His nomination to the best design position at Berluti came during a broader shift of design talent among LVMH’s menswear collections to capitalize on the rise of more casual, streetwear-influenced style in the category.

LVMH acquired Berluti in 1993 and it remains the only male-focused label in its portfolio. Berluti added leather goods in 2005 and ready-to-wear in 2011. It is run by CEO Antoine Arnault.

“To maintain our commitment to both knowledge and innovation, we decided to let Berluti run its own rhythm and give freedom to its presentation schedule,” Arnault said in a statement that also thanked Van Assche. “He has brought his own vision to Berluti, in particular by integrating new codes into the signatures.”

Disclosure: LVMH is part of a group of investors who collectively own a minority stake in The Business of FashionAll investors have signed the shareholder documentation which guarantees the full editorial independence of BoF.