For most people, North Korea is shrouded in mystery.
But not for traveler Zoe Stephens, from Liverpool in the United Kingdom. He has visited it more than 30 times, both as a tourist and as a guide for other tourists.
He first visited North Korea in 2016 and began touring there a year later. For a time he crossed the border every month and visited almost every region of the hermit kingdom.
Speaking to MailOnline Travel, he reveals his experiences in a country that has, for all intents and purposes, isolated itself from the outside world.
Zoe, who speaks Chinese, Korean and Japanese and lives in Taiwan, reveals here how North Korean people are much more “normal” than Westerners believe and “find it funny when people try to ‘teach’ them” about things like Facebook. . and Instagram’. Read on to learn more…
Zoe Stephens, from Liverpool in the UK, has visited North Korea (where she is pictured above) more than 30 times, as a tourist and guide.
Zoe, seen here in traditional Korean clothing on Paektusan Mountain with Heaven Lake in the background, says: “I basically Googled ‘North Korea Tour’ and booked a tour. North Korea is known to be difficult to access but, actually, it’s very easy’
The 30-year-old, pictured on the North Korea-China border, says: “I think a tour of North Korea is pleasantly disappointing. The media has a habit of sensationalizing it, but in reality you’ll see it’s relatively normal.
How difficult is it to visit North Korea?
Not at all, according to the young adventurer.
Zoe, 30, says: ‘I basically Googled “North Korea tour” and booked a tour. North Korea is known to be difficult to access, but it is actually very easy.
‘Even the visa is simple: just fill out a simple form, pay a fee and send a copy of your passport. The rest is already done for you.
Where have you visited within the country?
“I’ve been to every province over the years,” says the tour guide. ‘This includes many cities within North Korea.
“I have been to the south to the Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), on Korea’s north-south border, to the west to the coastal area of Nampo, to the east to the city of Wonsan, and to the north to the city from Chongjin and Samjiyon, home to the famous Paektusan Mountain and many amazing places in between.’
What are the best and worst qualities of North Korea?
Zoe replies: ‘It’s a shame it’s so closed and you have to take a tour; It would be great to go camping or hiking there.
But that is simply the reality. The best part is the people without a doubt. “They are incredibly welcoming and so much fun.”
Zoe says: ‘It’s a shame (North Korea) is so closed off. It would be great to go camping or hiking.’ Here, she is located on Mount Chilbo in Hamgyong Province.
“I’ve been to every province over the years,” says the tour guide. ‘This includes many cities within North Korea. There is a big difference between what you see in the cities (right) and rural areas (left in Chilbosan)’
Zoe adds: ‘I think a tour of North Korea is pleasantly disappointing. The media has a habit of sensationalizing it, but in reality you’ll find it’s relatively normal.’
Have you ever felt in danger?
“Honestly, not once,” Zoe replies.
Did you see any inequality?
“There is a big difference between what you see in cities and in rural areas,” responds the traveler.
Was she limited in what she could see?
“Yes and no,” Zoe says. “I always tell people they show you what they want to show you, but you can see so much more.”
What did you see while you were there?
“A lot,” Zoe answers. “From local cafes to museums, beautiful landscapes and markets… I have spent a total of several months of my life there and there is a lot to see.”
What are the North Korean people like?
Zoe replies: ‘To give a boring answer…they’re just like normal people! They love to have fun, drink and make dirty jokes. At the same time, they take their jobs very seriously and are incredibly well-educated and knowledgeable about the world.
‘People expect them to know nothing about the world and guides find it funny when people try to “teach” them things like Facebook and Instagram. In his words, “We know it and we don’t think it’s that good…why do people always want to show it to us?”
The frequent visitor says: “I have been south of the Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), west of the coastal area of Nampo, east of Wonsan city and north of Chongjin city and Samjiyon, home of the famous Paektusan mountain (pictured)’
‘They also have much more knowledge of history and geography than many foreigners I have met, and their language skills are incredible, especially considering that many of them have never been abroad. Of course, these are the guides I’m talking about.
‘The locals don’t speak much English generally speaking, but nevertheless, throughout Pyongyang it is a well-educated society. Education is free for everyone, even at the university level.’
Would I ever come back?
“Of course, I can’t wait,” says Zoe. ‘My last trip there was in January 2020. I was one of the last tourists to visit as the border closed a couple of days later due to Covid. As I left, I said goodbye to the friends I had made there and said, “See you soon!”
‘I usually go every month or so. So, it’s normal to wait a few weeks and see each other again but it’s been almost five years. That “see you soon” seems very long to me.
Zoe, seen here on the China-North Korea border, says the local people are “normal.” She comments: ‘They love to have fun, drink and make dirty jokes. At the same time, they take their work very seriously.’
