skip the line Cornwall receives five million visitors a year, but most arrive during the summer, when its narrow streets and stunning beaches can get very busy. However, out of season, in autumn and winter, you will find endless activities without honking your horns. As the locals say, the real summer begins in September.
line of sight Have you ever tried parking in St Ives in August? Don’t bother. Out of season it’s much easier and there’s nothing like having the Barbara Hepworth sculpture garden to yourself (entrance £8, tate.org.uk/visit/tate-st-ives). See the studio where he carved his iconic pieces before walking over the hill to Tate St Ives to enjoy contemporary art in a curved white building overlooking the equally stunning Atlantic Ocean (entrance £12).
Kynance Cove is a short drive from Hotel Polurrian on the Lizard
Bank Become a world leader at Carbis Bay Hotel, which hosted the G7 summit in 2021. Its Californian-style beachfront accommodations are named after the countries whose bosses stayed in each (double from £265, B&B, carbisbayhotel.co.uk). Look out to sea to see dolphins leaping and seals sniffing the air.
landline Cornwall once produced half of the world’s tin, as explained at the Geevor Tin Mine Museum near Penzance, a World Heritage site (entrance £20.50, geevor.com). Experience the thrill by donning a helmet and heading underground through dark tunnels previously used by miners, then recalibrate with a cream tea in the cozy café.
wavy line Winter is all about beating waves under gloomy skies, and is best enjoyed on the Lizard Peninsula, home to mainland Britain’s southernmost spot, Lizard Point. As for the hotel, Polurrian on the Lizard, not far from spectacular Kynance Cove, maximizes its sea views with panoramic windows in the lounge and a wrap-around terrace for its Shearwater Suite (double from £119, B&B, polurrianhotel.com).
Waist Cornwall is a central location for foodies, with Falmouth at the center of its youthful culinary transformation. Angus Bell, who trained under Michel Roux Jr at Le Gavroche, sets the bar high with locally sourced produce at Restaurant Mine (restaurantmine.co.uk; Dua Lipa has been seen here), while bar Chintz ( thechintzbar.com) next door has the best cocktails and parties in the city. The freshest oysters, the most delicate bites and the bougie beer? Head to The Seafood Bar (verdantbrewing.co) next to the harbour, while lunch is a must at Slice (sliceofcornwall.com), a few kilometers from an ancient forest: stone-baked sourdough wraps oozing with chunky, homemade sauces slices of beef. or chicken. For more traditional meals elsewhere in Cornwall, try Ann’s Pasties (annspasties.co.uk) in Porthleven or Rectory Farm Tea Rooms in Morwenstow (rectory-tearooms.co.uk).
shipping line Expand your seafaring knowledge at Falmouth Maritime Museum (entrance £18.50, nmmc.co.uk), with exhibits on pirates and the lively historic community of the Cornish coast. Stay at St Michael’s Resort, famous for its spa and food (doubles from £127, B&B, stmichaelsresort.com).
Deadline In 1989, Bob Lindo and his wife Annie planted their first vines in Camel Valley, near Bodmin, and today the same family produces award-winning sparkling wines. Visit the tasting room for a glass of Annie’s Anniversary Brut (camelvalley.com).
tree line The Eden Project in Bodelva is packed during school holidays, but the low season is the perfect time to visit, and the rainforest dome is always warm (entrance £38 online, edenproject.com). For other attractive garden walks, try the winding trails of the National Trust-owned Trelissick, near Truro (entrance £15, nationaltrust.org.uk/visit/cornwall/trelissick) or the magical Lost Gardens of Heligan, near St Austell (entrance £24.95, heligan.com).
family line Multi-generational holidays are on the rise and Cornwall is ideal, especially if the grandchildren are preschoolers. Fowey Hall (family rooms from £200, B&B, luxury family hotels.co.uk) has everything you need for kids, from an on-site nursery to Little Ishga spa treatments; or try the Bedruthan Hotel in Mawgan Porth (family rooms from £155, B&B, bedruthan.com) on the beach, great for winter walks.
Next week WELL-BEING: dance for a happy brain
