This is, by some measures, the deepest canyon in the world. Breathtaking, echoing, grandiose and densely forested from terrifying depths to snow-capped peaks. But where is this? America? Australia? Porcelain?
Look closer and you’ll see ancient monasteries clinging to the sides of the steep slopes. And those ornate medieval Orthodox Christian monasteries will give you a clue. This is Greece.
Specifically, it is the Vikos Gorge in the Pindus Mountains of historic Epirus, an area called Zagori in the northwest corner of the Greek mainland.
Few people come here, but Zagori is tremendously alluring: like a kind of rugged Greek Tuscany, right down to its 46 stone-built villages, its halloumi taverns under the oaks, its dazzling history of smugglers, bandits and poets (Byron I loved the area) , and its magnificent hiking, skiing, kayaking and climbing routes.
A good place to base yourself is the spectacular village of Mikro Papigo, at the end of the road, overlooking the valleys beyond and set against a backdrop of a wall of astonishing rocky peaks.
Maybe grab an ice-cold Macedonian Vergina beer on the elevated rocky terrace of Pinocchio cafe, then head to a cozy bed at Dias House, which serves hearty mountain food – think red wine-marinated beef or crispy roast pork with wild meat. oregano.
You will need these calories because you will be active the next day. This is a place you want to explore and one of the best ways to do so is by lacing up your hiking boots. Zagori has multiple marked trails (get a map from the tourist offices), from short walks that take you to sacred groves, fortified churches and crystal-clear bathing ponds, to epic day-long hikes that require mobility and stamina.
You can, for example, walk to the bottom of the Vikos Gorge and make your way to the other end, but it is not for the faint-hearted.
The call of the wild: Sean Thomas walks through the Vikos Gorge (pictured) in Zagori, northwest Greece
Sean says that if you’re planning a visit to Zagori, the village of Mikro Papigo (seen here) is a good base
Mikro Papigo ‘looks out into receding valleys’ and has a backdrop ‘of astonishing rocky peaks’
Above, the Aristi Bridge and the “exquisitely turquoise” waters of the Voidomatis River
A little less ambitious, perfect for a family and absolutely charming, is the half-day hike along the Voidomatis River Valley, which starts at a thin road bridge under the village of Aristi, then winds its way through rustling forests of maples and Ice Age caves. The walk is easy, but this is a truly wild area: eagles, wolves, wild boars, lynxes and even brown bears patrol in remote places.
Meanwhile, the river itself is a beauty: it springs to life from a sequence of jubilant springs in the Vikos Gorge, then babbles and chatters, icy, dazzling and exquisitely turquoise, before disappearing forever under an elegant bridge Ottoman, approximately three hours of walking through the valley.
Bring a picnic, spread a blanket, share a bottle of wine in the shade of the ancient forest; Then call a car to take you home.
Most hotels will be happy to offer you this luxury.
One hotel, about a five-minute drive from the starting point of the Voidomatis hike, is the Aristi Mountain Resort, with an indoor pool, sauna, bijou spa and “neo-Greek cuisine” made with local ingredients.
Sean reveals that Aristi Mountain Resort (pictured) is a five-minute drive from the start point of a family hike through the Voidomatis River Valley.
Sean recommends visiting the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Meteora (seen here), which is located a couple of hours southwest of Zagori.
In the evenings, you can also stroll from the Aristi Hotel to the local village (takes about ten minutes), where you’ll find a trio of excellent tavernas. These can get quite raucous as Athenians in their second homes drink their Mamos beer.
This beautiful corner of Greece has many options. You could head a couple of hours southwest and see the impressive monasteries on the pinnacles of Meteora, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, where the locals look up at the monks and the monks just look at the sky.
You’ll almost certainly want to complete your trip on Epirot’s attractive coastline: try bustling Preveza, pretty Venetian Parga, or the little gem that is Sivota, which is sleepy even in high season.
But for now just sit back and enjoy that transcendent view. In my opinion, it is the deepest and possibly the largest canyon in the world. Go and see for yourself.
