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With a dizzying array of “wonder” creams on offer, all promising eternal youth, shopping for skincare products can seem like an impossible task. So how can we know what really works when it comes to anti-ageing? As a consultant dermatologist, that’s a question I get asked all the time.
I tell my patients that while a great skincare routine doesn’t have to be expensive or complicated, does They must be intelligently formulated, suitable for each skin type and applied systematically. They must also be simplified and only a small number of products used: more is not more when it comes to optimal skin health and combating the signs of aging.
Leading dermatologist Dr. Emma Wedgworth is often asked by patients, “What really works when it comes to anti-aging?”
So what would be the ideal anti-aging skincare routine? And which products are effective? Here is my expert guide…
Your morning routine
Step 1: Cleaner
Getting it right is key: my patients who use the wrong cleanser for their skin type often have problems like irritation or clogged pores. I prefer non-foaming gel and cream cleansers because they are gentle.
Step 2: Vitamin C Serum
Antioxidants are compounds that fight free radicals, which are destructive, age-causing molecules released by UV light, pollution, and other environmental factors. Vitamin C is the most researched topical antioxidant, and l-ascorbic acid is the type of vitamin C with the most scientific evidence, so it’s what you want to look for in your serum. It can help reduce pigmentation and is essential for healthy collagen production.
Use all over face and neck, including under eyes, immediately after cleansing in the morning.
Step 3: Azelaic Acid Serum
Azelaic acid, a superstar ingredient, is anti-inflammatory and has anti-spot, anti-redness and anti-pigmentation properties – it’s great for lightening, brightening and evening out pigmentation. Most skin types can use it and it works well in the morning, after vitamin C. You can also use it alongside a retinoid at night (avoiding the eye area).
Step 4: Moisturizer
Optimal hydration is essential to prevent premature aging. A good moisturizer nourishes and protects the skin barrier, which becomes more delicate with age. Moisturizer ingredients that help reinforce the components of the skin’s protective barrier are best: look for niacinamide, ceramides, and glycerin. Moisturizer also helps increase tolerance to powerful anti-wrinkle actives, such as retinoids.
Step 5: Sunscreen
There is no anti-aging without sun protection. UV exposure is responsible for most non-genetic skin aging, so anti-wrinkle ingredients are pointless without year-round UV protection. Daily sunscreens are no longer the thick, oily products they used to be; today they offer sleek textures for all skin types and come with added anti-aging ingredients. Many double as good humectants, so you can use them in place of your daytime moisturizer if you wish.
Your bedtime routine
Step 1: Cleaner
Your cleanser is even more important at night than in the morning, as it will remove not only makeup and dirt, but also age-causing polluting particles.
Step 2: Peptide Serum
Yes, you need a third serum. Peptides are “signaling” molecules that help the skin work more efficiently when it comes to repairing wrinkles, lightening pigmentation, combating irritation, etc. Their formulation and size determine how well they are absorbed and work. They are very well tolerated, making them suitable for even the most sensitive skin. They can be used in place of a retinoid or in conjunction with it.
Step 3: A retinoid
Retinoids, a generic term for a group of vitamin A-related creams, are a favorite of dermatologists. Retinoids help increase the quantity and quality of collagen and improve fine lines. They speed up cell turnover to improve texture for smoother skin, soften pigmentation, and fight blemishes. The different molecules—retinol, retinaldehyde, and granactive retinoid—have their pros and cons, but all are effective. Retinoids can irritate the skin, but if introduced slowly and at the right dose, most people can successfully incorporate them into their routine.
Step 4: Moisturizer
A moisturizer suitable for your skin type can be used during the day and at night; it is not necessary to use a separate night cream.
The 11 best anti-aging products I recommend you use
Dr. Sam’s Flawless Cleanser is suitable for all skin types
Dr. Sam’s Flawless Cleanser, £19 (en:drsambunting.com)
A gentle product that I really appreciate, it suits all skin types.
Skinceuticals CE Ferulic, £165 (skinceuticals.es)
This is the gold standard of vitamin C serums, with 15% L-Ascorbic Acid, Vitamin E, and Ferulic Acid. Formulated to optimize the stability of vitamin C, it is one of the most studied vitamin C products on the market.
Paula’s Choice 10 Percent Azelaic Acid Booster, £34.85 ((paulaschoice.co.uk)
In addition to soothing, brightening and refining azelaic acid, it also contains salicylic acid to keep blemish-prone skin clear.
Cerave PM Ultra Light Lotion, £11.75 (amazon.es)
A lightweight moisturizer ideal for oilier skin types (which need hydration as much as dry skin types), containing niacinamide, which helps strengthen the barrier and brighten the skin, and works as a protective antioxidant.
Murad City Skin Age Defense Sunscreen SPF50, £69 (cultbeauty.es)
A broad spectrum mineral sunscreen (ideal for sensitive skin) enriched with multiple ingredients to protect against aging pollution.
Heliocare Water Gel SPF50 Beige/Bronze, £32.99 (heliocare.es)
Lightweight, broad spectrum and rich in anti-aging antioxidants. It has a finish similar to a tinted moisturizer – use your sunscreen like makeup and not the other way around!
Boots’ No7 Future Renew Damage Reversal Serum is Dr Wedgworth Approved
No7 Future Renew Damage Reducing Serum, £34.95 (boots.com)
It contains a clinically proven patented peptide complex that penetrates the skin and visibly repairs damage by stimulating the skin’s key proteins, collagen and elastin.
Medik8 Crystal Retinal comes in five different strengths.
Medik8 Crystal Retinal, from £49 (cultbeauty.es)
This serum comes in five different strengths, so you can increase the dosage as you build up your tolerance to the powerful retinoid retinaldehyde.
The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 5% in Squalane, £15.90 (theordinary.com)
Granactive retinoid is better tolerated than retinol, but it is higher potency, so you may need to start with the lowest, 2%, and slowly increase the dose.
Triple Lipid Restore 2:4:2 by Skinceuticals
Skinceuticals Triple Lipid Restore 2:4:2, £150 (skinceuticals.es)
An excellent, rich cream for drier skin types that contains the optimal ratio of ceramides, lipids and cholesterol to help restore the important skin barrier that preserves smooth skin.
Naturium Multipeptide Eye Cream, £18 (spacenk.com)
Eye creams are not essential, but peptides are a good option in an eye contour product, as this sensitive area tolerates them well. This light cream contains peptides that brighten, plump and relax fine lines.
- Told to Ingeborg van Lotringen
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