Home Travel I lived in Madrid for 20 years: these are the hidden gems that tourists miss, from a sherry bar in time to “invisible” nuns selling cookies

I lived in Madrid for 20 years: these are the hidden gems that tourists miss, from a sherry bar in time to “invisible” nuns selling cookies

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Madrid experts Jules Stewart and Helen Crisp write:

On a warm spring morning in 1561, King Philip II of Spain boarded his royal carriage in Toledo to embark on a historic 50-mile journey north to Madrid, a mediocre city of about 9,000 inhabitants that he would designate as the new capital. of the country.

Little did the stern, black, doublet-clad Habsburg monarch suspect that within some 460 years, his new center of empire would become the cocktail center of Spain.

This is just one of the many surprises awaiting Madrid’s more than 10 million annual visitors who may be curious to explore beyond the beaten tourist sites and drink a jug of sangria, that disgusting concoction invented by English sailors. of the 16th century in the Caribbean. .

For a proper Spanish drink, head to La Venencia on the old and cobbled Calle de Echegaray.

Since opening its doors in 1921, this gloriously ramshackle Jerez bar hasn’t had a lick of paint or replaced the peeling plaster walls, from which a working dial-up telephone still hangs. Please note that La Venencia only serves sherry. If you order a glass of wine or a beer they will show you the door.

Other house points to note: Tips will be firmly refused and photography will not be permitted.

You select from the five varieties of sherry listed on the wall, your host will make a note on the mahogany bar with white chalk and your drink will be served with a plate of olives.

Are you a little hungry? Do you fancy a traditional Madrid sweet?

Madrid experts Jules Stewart and Helen Crisp write: “Many surprises await those of Madrid’s more than 10 million annual visitors who may be curious to explore beyond this busy tourist site.” Above is the Plaza de Cibeles.

Above are Jules and Helen (left) at Rosi la Loca cocktail bar.

It was founded by a Romanian woman who set it up in an abandoned hardware store.

Above are Jules and Helen (left) at Rosi la Loca cocktail bar (right). It was founded by a Romanian woman who set it up in an abandoned hardware store.

A unique candy shopping experience awaits you at Casa Mira on Calle de San Jerónimo, just around the corner from La Venencia.

Here, giant chunks of turrón, a traditional almond nougat sweet, are cut to order, wrapped in waxed paper, and tied with parcel ribbon.

Then comes the delightfully old-fashioned system whereby the attendant hands you a handwritten bill to take to the checkout, where you must pay.

Once the invoice is sealed, you return to collect your nougat from the counter.

An even more picturesque baking experience is found at the Corpus Christi Convent in Plaza del Conde de Miranda, near Mercado de San Miguel. Buying cookies from the nuns marks a journey to a strange world of silence.

After ringing the intercom, a faint beep is heard and the door opens. Because the nuns are cloistered, the lathe (a cross between a wooden revolving door and a Lazy Susan) allows them to conduct transactions without seeing or being in the same room as their clients. You give your order, the lathe turns and your cookies come out.

The Literary Quarter (above) was the home of Miguel de Cervantes, Lope de Vega and other luminaries of the Golden Age of Madrid literature, the writers note.

The Literary Quarter (above) was the home of Miguel de Cervantes, Lope de Vega and other luminaries of the Golden Age of Madrid literature, the writers note.

Lope de Vega wrote almost 2,000 plays throughout his career and you can take a tour in English of his home (above) on Calle de Cervantes.

Lope de Vega wrote almost 2,000 plays throughout his career and you can take a tour in English of his home (above) on Calle de Cervantes.

You can buy cookies from the nuns of the Corpus Christi Convent in the Plaza del Conde de Miranda

You can buy cookies from the nuns of the Corpus Christi Convent in the Plaza del Conde de Miranda

Another special store that takes you back in time is Capas Sesena on Calle de la Cruz, manufacturers of capes since 1901, and only capes. The founder’s great-grandson, Marcos Seseña, designs and manufactures the capes in the facility.

The list of aristocrats, celebrities and artist clients includes Orson Welles, who used his cape to advertise a brand of sherry. Pablo Picasso left instructions to be buried at his cape in Seseña.

The ‘special store’ par excellence in Madrid must be the Real Fábrica de Tapices on Fuenterrabía street, near the Atocha train station.

It was founded in 1721 and offers a fascinating window into a large-scale artisanal enterprise the likes of which exists virtually nowhere else today.

For anyone interested in textiles and weaving, it is a must-see, with daily guided tours in English. You can even order your own tapestry, made with an original Goya design.

After all that activity, it’s time to visit one of Madrid’s unique cocktail bars.

The first stop could be crazy rose on Cádiz Street, founded by a Romanian woman married to a Spaniard, who called her crazy when she came up with the idea of ​​opening the bar in an abandoned hardware store.

Since this first venture, the mysterious Rosi, whom few have ever seen, has launched four more imaginatively themed emporiums in the area, Brutal Bar Valle Inclán, Lovo and Calle 365, all within striking distance of each other around Calle de Echegaray. .

A good place to end the night (or not) is the Josephine Baker-themed Lovo, where you can sip cocktails until 5:00 a.m. closing time.

It’s time for a pre-dinner stroll through the Barrio de las Letras, the Literary Quarter that was once home to Miguel de Cervantes, Lope de Vega, and other luminaries from the Golden Age of Madrid literature.

Lope wrote almost 2,000 plays throughout his career and you can take a tour in English of his house on Calle de Cervantes, which is named after his next-door neighbor.

It is said that walking leisurely from Plaza Mayor to Plaza Tirso de Molina you will pass by more bars than are found in Norway.

And there are great places to dine nearby.

La Huerta de Tudela on Prado Street and Julián de Tolosa in Cava Baja are inspired by the unique vegetable and seafood dishes of northern Navarra.

After dinner in the old restaurant we take a walk along Calle de Alcalá to reach Plaza de Cibeles.

It’s almost midnight and we have an early flight back to London the next morning.

Jules and Helen end their trip to Madrid with a 'refreshing glass of cava' at Café Gijón

Jules and Helen end their trip to Madrid with a ‘refreshing glass of cava’ at Café Gijón

Jules and Helen describe Madrid as 'the cocktail center of Spain'

Jules and Helen describe Madrid as ‘the cocktail center of Spain’

Jules has written three books about Madrid. His latest volume is Cádiz: The History of the Oldest City in Europe, co-authored with Helen

Jules has written three books about Madrid. His latest volume is Cádiz: The History of the Oldest City in Europe, co-authored with Helen

Without thinking twice, instead of continuing down the street to our hotel, we turned left along the tree-lined Paseo de Recoletos to the iconic centenary Café Gijón, where within the Monday night poetry recital, a tradition devised by the waiter -The poet José Bárcena, is in full swing.

Outside on the terrace, the pianist plays a medley of classic Broadway show tunes.

This requires a refreshing glass of cava.

Yes, it’s late, but the pianist has begun to accompany the ivories with a rich bass rendition of Some Enchanted Evening from South Pacific.

The couples walking hand in hand along the Paseo de Recoletos, the laughter of the group of friends at the next table, who have just ordered another bottle of Rioja and who understand that one day we will all be playing the harp… This moment in Madrid reminds us what the poet John Dryden said about moments like this: “Tomorrow do the worst, for I have lived today.”

Helen Crisp and Jules Stewart are the authors of Cádiz: the history of the oldest city in Europelaunched by Hurst Publishers in November 2024. Jules has also written Madrid: midnight city (with Helen Crisp); Madrid: The History; and Madrid: a literary guide for travelers.

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