It takes three turns along the same winding road, as well as a few words selected on the sat nav, before we finally see the discreet sign for our hotel.
Driving the rental car along another winding road, we suddenly and excitingly come across a cluster of square wooden buildings that seem to jut out into the grassy hillside and descend to the sea.
Apart from the small detour, it only took 90 minutes to reach this part of Halkidiki after flying into Thessaloniki, Greece’s second largest city.
In that time, however, we have passed through a vast landscape of silvery olive groves and huge open spaces which, were it not for the high temperatures, might trick the eye into thinking we were actually in the Lake District.
It’s strange, really, since Halkidiki, a large peninsula in northern Greece, is a name often associated with lively nightlife, bustling tavernas and busy beaches. However, it is actually divided into three smaller peninsulas that jut out like a trio of gnarled fingers into the Aegean.
Angela Epstein explores Ammouliani Island (pictured), which lies in the bay of the Athos peninsula in Halkidiki.
And it is only the first finger, known as Cassandra, that has become a centre of mass tourism and ever larger resorts.
Continue towards our destination on the third finger, known as the Athos Peninsula, and you will find a completely different place.
Miles of countryside dotted with fishing villages, chestnut forests and surrounded by incredibly translucent blue waters said to be the clearest in Greece.
Athos is crowned by Mount Athos and a community of 24 monasteries, reveals Angela
Above, the Vatopedi Monastery, which King Charles visited on many occasions.
All this crowned by Mount Athos and a community of some 24 monasteries.
It is a place King Charles has visited on many occasions and he is said to have sought spiritual guidance from his old friend, the abbot of the Greek Orthodox monastery of Vatopedi, following his cancer diagnosis.
Our hotel, Avaton, fits perfectly into the ambiance of this tranquil peninsula. It is a collection of luxurious suites, villas and discreet rooms set in lush gardens. There is no communal pool, but many rooms have private plunge pools with built-in sun loungers.
The stay takes place on the protected Avaton Beach, where the crystal-clear waters seem undisturbed by the waves. Breakfast is served under gauze gazebos and there is the option of dining on the beach itself.
If you want to see Mount Athos, Angel recommends taking a coastal cruise from the town of Ouranoupolis (pictured)
Athos is the so-called ‘third finger’ of Halkidiki
Given the topography, if you want to explore this part of Halkidiki, it’s essential to plan your trip well, as it can get very hot. The good thing is that in this time zone there is daylight until 20:45, so there’s no need to party hard under the relentless Hellenic sun. The hotel can arrange bikes, including electric ones, so one day, around 18:00, when the sun is starting to lose some of its strength, we crested the hills before descending to the small seaside village of Nea Roda, where houses are covered in bougainvillea and tavernas serve freshly caught fish.
Another day we rent a motorboat to visit three small islands. Ammouliani, the largest, is the only permanently inhabited of the three (and it only has 600 inhabitants, though it also has its share of tavernas and souvenir shops). In contrast, the neighbouring Goat Island is just a rocky outcrop where my husband Martin gives free rein to his adventurous gene: he drops anchor and swims to shore, where we are greeted by a group of goats (yes, yes) on the rough sand. Their inscrutable gaze makes it unclear whether we are welcome or not.
If you would like to see Mount Athos, there are a variety of coastal cruises available from the small town of Ouranoupolis, just a ten-minute drive from our hotel.
Feminists, look away: Women have been banned from the sacred mountain for around 1,000 years, but you’ll get a good view from the boat.
Angela is staying in Avaton, upstairs, which “perfectly fits the ambiance of this tranquil peninsula”
Stagira is the birthplace of Aristotle. Above is a statue of the philosopher in the ancient city, with its ruins “scattered over a hill overlooking the gulf.”
If you are a hiking enthusiast, this hidden part of Halkidiki offers numerous trails and paths. Thanks again to the long days of its peak season, we set out to explore on foot around 6pm, making sure we have a clear guide on Google Maps, hats, water and UV umbrella. On another day we take a 45-minute drive to ancient Stagira, the birthplace of Aristotle, where the ruins of the original city are scattered on a hill overlooking the Gulf.
After another 30 minutes you’ll reach Aristotle Park, where a series of interactive outdoor instruments, including optical discs, a water turbine, a telescope and a sounding rod, display the ancient philosopher’s curriculum for his students (among them Alexander the Great).
After days of exploring, it is a pleasure to retreat to our hotel and enjoy the tranquility.
With a warm, gentle wind rustling our clothes and eating homemade, crunchy, colourful salads, the soul of hidden Halkidiki feels tangible.
As for party-goers and nightlife lovers, the finger points in a different direction.
