Millions of women around the world consider them an easy way to achieve perfectly plump lips.
But lip fillers could have a very unwanted long-term effect: triggering a rare type of cancer, experts have warned.
Some fillings may be contaminated with toxic chemicals during manufacturing, they say.
Additionally, as the filler breaks down, it enters the circulation and could build up in other parts of the body, causing blockages.
These things could trigger cellular changes that lead to blood cancer. according to Dr Kalliopi Dodou, Head of the Department of Pharmacy at Teesside University.
While uncross-linked HA is quickly broken down and absorbed by the body, the cross-linked version stays in the body for much longer, which could be risky, the researchers found.
While the research is at an early stage, Dr Dodou says it is a potential risk that needs to be considered and is calling for stricter regulations for fillers in the UK.
In a new analysis, Dr. Dodou compared 111 studies on the safety of the most common type of dermal filler (hyaluronic acid, or HA) and found reports of alarming risks.
Injections of this gelatinous substance not only add volume to the lips and cheeks, but can also be used to improve skin hydration and elasticity.
And the procedure is extremely popular. A 2019 survey by VICE UK of around 51,000 young people aged between 13 and 24 found that treatments such as lip fillers are becoming more common.
More than half said they considered these “touch-ups” to be comparable to getting a haircut or manicure.
In a separate survey of 60,000 people, asking whether they had undergone any cosmetic procedures, such as lip fillers, only about 4,000 said they had undergone such beauty treatments.
Fillers have been notoriously linked to shows such as ITV’s Love Island, which features numerous contestants with extremely “modified” features.
This sparked a craze among young women who were asking for extremely inflated “Love Island” lips.
TV shows like Love Island have popularised lip fillers with stars like Matilda Draper (left) and Nicole Samuel (right) opting for fuller lips.
But with the growing popularity of this cosmetic treatment, experts warn that some substances used could be harmful.
DDodou explained that while HA itself is not toxic, some of the chemicals used in manufacturing the fillers that give the gels different thicknesses are harmful.
Although these chemicals are supposed to be removed from the final product, “small amounts may remain,” he adds.
Dr Dodou continued: ‘The more filler we use, the more we are exposed to residual chemicals.
Dermal fillers break down over time, but as they do, they can release these toxic substances.
“We don’t yet fully understand the health impact this has, and it could be serious, especially if fillers are used too frequently.”
One of the studies included in Dr. Dodou’s analysis, published in Cosmetics Journal, found that dermal fillers could enter the lymphatic system (the network of glands, known as nodes, and corpuscles that run through the body and are vital to immunity).
The head and neck region contains more than 300 lymph nodes and some of them are located around the nose and lips, where filler is often injected.
Dr. Dodou explained that if the filler is injected excessively or incorrectly, this can block these lymph nodes that fight foreign substances, such as infections.
This can cause swelling and is known to increase the risk of lymph cells going out of control, leading to immune system cancers such as lymphoma.
But researchers note that the hypothesis linking dermal fillers to cancer is still in its early stages.
And Marc Pacifico, president of the British Association of Aesthetic Plastic Surgeons, said: ‘There is no evidence that fillers cause cancer.
‘Scientific evidence suggests that some fillers may affect lymphatic flow and cause lymphatic obstruction.
‘With any cosmetic procedure it is essential to see a suitably qualified and experienced physician who understands facial anatomy and is fully informed about the safety profile of the dermal filler being administered.’
In addition, the research also raises awareness of vision problems or blindness in cases where fillers block blood vessels around the eyes.
An independent five-year study found that the treatment fully restored vision in only 36 percent of cases where fillers caused such blockages.
These findings also raise serious questions about the safety of these treatments, especially when administered by people with insufficient training.
Despite being classified as medical devices, current UK regulations allow a wide range of professionals to administer these injections.
The British Cosmetic Nurses Association has also warned of the lack of legislation in the UK, pointing out that Scotland has been identified as the “worst country in Europe for unqualified beauticians injecting cosmetic treatments into clients”.
An amendment to the Health and Care Act 2022 will introduce a furlough scheme in the UK, but no date has yet been set for its implementation.
“Our research highlights the urgent need for regulators to strengthen existing frameworks to improve consumer safety and raise standards in the aesthetics industry,” added Dr Dodou.
While many clinics are reputable and offer treatments such as lip fillers that are administered successfully and without problems, an increasing number of patients are reporting harm.
The British Cosmetic Nurses Association has also warned of the lack of legislation in the UK, pointing out that Scotland has been identified as the “worst country in Europe for unqualified beauticians injecting cosmetic treatments into clients”.
It is estimated that around 900,000 Botox injections are performed in the UK each year, most without any complaints from patients.
Save Face, a government-approved register of accredited practitioners, received almost 3,000 complaints in 2022 alone, with more than two-thirds of those complaints relating to dermal fillers and almost a quarter to Botox.
Injections such as dermal fillers and Botox, the most recognized brand of the substance botulinum toxin, can cause infections and painful swelling if not administered properly.
If filler is accidentally injected into a blood vessel, it can cut off the blood and oxygen supply to the tissue, causing it to die and eventually fall off.
