Leith, Edinburgh’s idiosyncratic docklands, has historically unhealthy associations.
This former hangout for sailors and ladies of the night became the setting for Irvine Welsh’s heroin addicts in Trainspotting in the 1990s.
But don’t let that discourage you.
The last two decades have seen steady gentrification, with the introduction of widened boulevards, a tram route and a host of interesting new bars, restaurants and shops.
A perfect place to escape the busiest crowds as the Edinburgh International Festival gets into gear this month (running until 25 August), and just a short tram ride away from the old-fashioned tartan Royal Mile.
All lit up: Katie Tilbury explores Leith, Edinburgh’s ‘idiosyncratic’ harbourside neighbourhood (above)
!['The last two decades have seen a steady gentrification[of Leith]with the introduction of widened boulevards, a tram route and a host of interesting new bars, restaurants and shops,' writes Katie](https://whatsnew2day.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/Choose-Leith-Edinburghs-port-district-once-the-setting-for-Trainspotting.jpeg "Choose Leith. Edinburgh's port district, once the setting for Trainspotting, has become a cult place around the world. 7")
‘The last two decades have seen a steady gentrification[of Leith]with the introduction of widened boulevards, a tram route and a host of interesting new bars, restaurants and shops,’ writes Katie
Leith was once a separate entity from Edinburgh. The fiercely independent Leithians rejected the merger in a referendum in 1920. And although they were forced to do so, their civic pride and sense of identity are clearly evident.
The Leith Theatre is a prime example of this. It is an art deco building that closed its doors in 1988 but, thanks to the Leith Theatre Trust, has been brought back to life as a vibrant cultural space hosting concerts and art exhibitions.
Once part of the Caledonian Railway, Leith Arches has been transformed into a vibrant venue on several levels. There are regular markets, theatre performances and yoga sessions.
The Port of Leith Distillery, seen here, is Scotland’s first vertically-planned distillery and visitors can take guided tours.
The Royal Yacht Britannia (pictured), Leith’s ‘big draw’, was in action from 1954 to 1997, and Queen Elizabeth II made numerous voyages on the ship.
This is an ideal spot for an evening drink, with cocktails available and beers on tap from local brewery Campervan Brewery. It’s just five minutes down Leith Walk from Pilot Brewery, whose “peach melba sour” is much loved by locals.
If you’re looking for something a little more rugged, visit the Port of Leith Distillery, where guided tours are available. And don’t forget the royal yacht Britannia, Leith’s big attraction, which was in service from 1954 to 1997, during the countless voyages made by Queen Elizabeth II, sometimes accompanied by US presidents such as Dwight Eisenhower, Ronald Reagan and Bill Clinton.
All a little more luxurious than the scenes from Trainspotting… Leith has risen in the world.
Where to stay: Fingal is a converted Northern Lighthouse Board (NLB) ship that has been converted into a charming five-star hotel with elegant rooms and an award-winning restaurant.
Double rooms from £300 (fingal.co.uk) More information: eif.co.uk, en.edfringe.com.
Katie recommends staying at Fingal, seen here, a Northern Lighthouse Board (NLB) ship converted into a five-star hotel with double rooms from £300.