The Royal Ascot fashion show has always been a barometer and inspiration for dressing at summer events in general.
And good advice from Ascot as racing gets underway this week? Change your flashy dress for a colorful, fluid and modern tailoring.
Leading the field is the race’s first creative director, Daniel W. Fletcher, a unisex designer who has dressed both Harry Styles and The Crown star Emma Corrin.
He has delved into the Ascot archives to create a lookbook of timeless yet modern ensembles for 2024, including brocade suits and crisp shirtdresses paired with ties.
“Dressing for the occasion is something we rarely have time to do these days,” says Fletcher, who has been a racing fan for many years and says he was “a little intimidated, but incredibly excited” when Royal Ascot took place. approached him for the role.
Hat, £109, phase-ocho.com; blouse, £225 and skirt, £285, both at lisau.co.uk; shoes, £225, fairfaxandfavor.com
Hat, £390, stephenjonesmillinery.com; blazer, £360, top, £114 and trousers, £230, all essentiel-antwerp.com
Sleek suits continue to dominate the runway and red carpet (worn by everyone from the Princess of Wales to Zendaya), so it makes sense that Fletcher would bring his signature shirts, shorts, and jackets to the races.
Whether for Ascot, a wedding or any other event on the social calendar, summer suits are all about the fun details: padded shoulders, patch pockets or notch lapels.
The silhouettes are relaxed and fluid, almost baggy: think an unbuttoned double-breasted jacket or curved flared trousers. The colors are pastel or bright; nothing too similar to traditional work clothes.
“Tailoring has always been an important part of women’s Royal Ascot dressing,” says Fletcher. “However, it’s the dresses that tend to catch the eye because they’re a little more extravagant.”
To prove that bespoke pieces can be just as spectacular, he took inspiration from royal visitors to Ascot.
“Some of my favorite women’s looks when I was researching the lookbook were those of 1980s royalty, with brightly colored jackets, big shoulders and fitted waists.”
Princess Diana’s letterbox red vest and striped blouse with bow in 1981 would still turn heads today. This fuchsia blouse and skirt from Lisou is a modern take on the look.
Likewise, her oversized, double-breasted, dusty pink and purple skirt suit, worn in 1990, was similar to the loose, pastel tailoring at Stella McCartney and 16Arlington this season.
Hat, £49, accessorize.com; jacket, £499 and trousers, £299, both at hollandcooper.com; shoes, £275, russellandbromley.co.uk
Headband, £350, mervebayindir.com; belted jacket, £69 and trousers, £40, riverisland.com; shoes, £75, monsoon.co.uk
An oversized jacket and pants from Essentiel Antwerp or the double-breasted suit from race day favorite Holland Cooper offer a similar feel.
However, you don’t have to wear pants to follow the tailoring trend. Queen Elizabeth II was the master of bright mint green and periwinkle skirt suits, and this custom-made toothpaste green dress by Karen Millen is a good alternative.
And after the jumpsuit was officially accepted into the Royal Enclosure dress code in 2017, Sophie, Countess of Wessex, moved forward with a long version with a blue belt.
“I loved seeing the development of women’s tailoring at Royal Ascot,” adds Fletcher. “I hope this allows everyone to feel more comfortable finding the look that suits them best.”
He points out that a great suit will be much more versatile than a statement dress that you only wear once. It doesn’t have to be expensive either. This belted jacket (£69) and trousers (£40) from River Island are an affordable way to try out the tailored trend.
Fletcher’s top tip for turning a high street purchase into something that feels truly luxurious is to buy big and then accessorize.
“My advice to anyone is to make sure your suit actually fits,” he says. “While not everyone will head to Savile Row for a bespoke suit, having your trousers folded to the right length or the sleeves rolled up a little to reveal a hint of shirt sleeve on your High Street or vintage suit will set the tone. difference”. to enhance your personalized look.’
A silk blouse, a high-neck sleeveless top, or a camisole under a jacket will keep the look elegant and formal.
Hat, £250, alexandraharpermillinery.com; dress, £175.20, karenmillen.com; shoes, £295, russellandbromley.co.uk
Hat, £1,500, alexandraharpermillinery. is; jacket, £375 and trousers, £225, both at meandem.com; shoes £255, camillaelphick.com; necklace, £23, betty andbiddy.com
Opt for bold colors, like this gold blazer and pants from Me+Em, and padded shoulders or a pointed lapel to suggest more party, less 9-5.
‘Opt for a fabric without too much texture that won’t age quickly. This will allow it to be combined with different underlayers,” says Fletcher.
“I love a suit that I can wear with a shirt when I’m going to an event, but then throw it on with a T-shirt and sneakers to lunch.”
So where will the women’s tailoring trend end up?
“Ascot style is constantly evolving,” says Fletcher. “As tailoring becomes more androgynous, I’d love to see women try the morning coat look.”
Top hats optional.