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Traveling to Anguilla, the northernmost of the Leeward Islands in the Eastern Caribbean, is quite an experience. After a nine-hour flight from London to Antigua, followed by a brief layover, we boarded a nine-seater plane for the last leg of our trip. But as we sail over the Caribbean Sea and the jewel-like island comes into view, I quickly realize there’s nowhere better to go.
Anguilla is best known for its pristine beaches. Meads Bay, located on the western side of the island, was voted the third best beach in the world by 2024, while Shoal Bay, on the northern coast, is consistently regarded as one of the most beautiful stretches in the world. With its white and pink sands (some of the softest I’ve ever had the pleasure of sinking my toes into), it’s also the backdrop for our first stop on the trip.
Where to stay in Anguilla
Zemi Beach House
With its rooftop plunge pool and spectacular views, you can see why Paris Hilton spent part of her honeymoon in the Presidential Suite at Zemi Beach House – it’s the perfect spot for a secluded beach vacation.
The hotel is spread across six acres but only has 76 rooms and suites, so each guest has the luxury of space. I stayed in a King Ocean room, which had a magical view of Shoal Bay from its balcony.
One King Ocean Room at Zemi Beach House
I love a huge bathroom and with enough high-end toiletries to store Space NK, a walk-in shower, double sinks and a little rubber duck perched on the edge of the freestanding tub, it certainly didn’t disappoint.
Our first night started with a rum tasting in the Rhum Room. The Caribbean milk punch served in a bulbous test tube was a big hit, as was the Plantation rum, but we wisely didn’t get to try the £520-a-shot rum proudly displayed behind the bar.
The rum room
For our first dinner, we headed to 20 Knots (this restaurant also serves breakfast) and the setting couldn’t have been dreamier. You can dine with your feet in the sand while listening to the gentle lapping of the sea against the shore just a few meters away.
A stay at Zemi Beach House wouldn’t be complete without a visit to its 300-year-old authentic Thai house: the main building is an oasis of calm and is home to the largest hamman on the island. Get ready, I asked for a firm massage and at one point the therapist climbed onto my back. I’m sure I came out an inch taller and slept like a baby that night.
Prices for a King Room with Garden View and Balcony at Zemi Beach House start from around £550 + tax per night. For more information or to book a visit zemibeach.com.
Villas CeBlue
For the second half of our trip, we stayed in one of Ce Blue’s gated villas, perched majestically on Crocus Hill, the highest point on the island.
A villa with private pool in CeBlue
Our villa had three bedrooms on the top floor with vaulted ceilings and the most spectacular view from a bathtub you could ask for. On the ground floor there were two more bedrooms and a games room.
Folding doors from the main dining room and kitchen opened onto a large private terrace with pool and sun loungers perfect for watching the stunning sunset.
However, the kitchen’s fancy appliances may not be used because catering services are available. We opted for a continental breakfast and evening barbecue, all deliciously provided by the resident chef.
A bathtub with the most spectacular view.
Prices for a 5-bedroom villa (sleeps 10) at CeBlue Anguilla start from around £7,750 + tax per week. For more information or to book a visit ceblueanguilla.com.
What to do and where to eat in Anguilla
Rent a jeep to explore the island.
There is no public transport, so the best way to explore the island is by renting a Moke, a small open jeep (from around £70 for four hours and £110 for a full day). mokeanguilla.com).
We stopped at Wallblake House (the plantation house will soon be transformed into a social history museum) and the nearby Catholic church, before driving to Anguilla Arch in the West End, a spectacular cliff formation that deserves a place in your Instagram account.
Wallblake House
Caught in a tropical downpour, we stopped for lunch at Blanchards Beach Cabin. The sunset margarita with frozen tequila, appropriately served in a cactus cocktail glass, and the curried sauteed shrimp served with rice and peas filled the void until dinner.
After dinner at I saw – yes, I gained a few kilos while I was on the island – we headed to Elvis Beach Bar. Anguilla’s racing boat-turned-beach bar is perfect for listening to music and chatting with locals while sipping the last rum cocktail of the night.
Take a kayak tour
Most activities in Anguilla focus on and around the turquoise waters. We opted for a transparent kayaking experience (from around £75 for a two-hour kayak tour from Crocus Bay to Little Bay, seableu.ai@gmail.com).
small bay
We continued on, dodging small yachts and motorboats, to secluded Little Bay, where we stopped to snorkel. I’m claustrophobic, but with some expert advice from our guide (a little saliva rubbed on the lenses of my glasses prevents them from fogging up) I was able to enjoy the experience. Even a turtle and a couple of rays showed up to say hello.
There is also a place here for cliff diving in Little Bay, but that was left to braver souls than me.
Back in Crocus Bay, we felt like we had earned lunch at Da’Vida Beach Club. Our waitress Sherry treated us like family and, after some banter, doubled up the shots of my already potent frozen pina colada, which came with a hint of nutmeg and a bright red cherry. I barely remember the chicken burger and fries that followed, but there was nothing left.
saffron bay
Take the boat to Sandy Island
After a hearty breakfast at tasty With a side of Johnny Cakes, a must-try local donut-style bread, we were ready for another day on the ocean waves.
We took the boat to Sandy Island (from about £32, Sandyislandoffice@gmail.com). Surrounded by the most intense turquoise sea, the small desert island has nothing more than a beach bar and a restaurant. I wandered around fascinated by its sheer beauty: every year it changes shape due to the forces of nature.
sand island
Lunch arrived and needless to say we enjoyed some of the freshest seafood (think grilled lobster and prawns) and frozen cocktails. Just be careful with Matouk’s Calypso Hot Sauce as it will blow your mind.
When to go to Anguilla
There is no denying that Anguilla is a special place. Beautiful, peaceful and unspoiled, but still has all the luxuries you could want. With no big cruise ships and no all-inclusive resorts or high-rise developments, you’ll never feel overwhelmed by other tourists.
CeBlue
Because it takes a little more effort to get here (there are no direct flights from the UK to Anguilla), it is a relatively expensive holiday destination in high season (December-May). However, if you travel out of season and don’t mind the occasional tropical rain shower, you can save almost 50%.
How to get to Anguilla
We flew from London Gatwick to Antigua with British Airways (from £498, britishairways.com) and from Antigua to Anguilla with TransAnguilla Airways (from around £150, transanguilla.com).
Alternatively, you can fly from London Heathrow to Sint Maarten via Schiphol or Paris with KLM or Air France. Upon arrival, it’s a 60-second bus transfer from the airport to the dock, where Calypso Charters staff will guide visitors through security and customs on a 12-person boat for a 25-minute ride across the water.