Vincent Van Gogh may have been deaf and on the verge of madness during his time in Saint-Remy-de-Provence, but the Dutch master painted some of his best works here, in the bustling French resort town near Avignon. .
The prolific period of his career included Iris, Sunflowers and Starry Night.
So, with a C grade in O level art, I traveled to Saint Remy to create my own masterpiece.
Guiding my hand is Aicha Bendafi, who patiently teaches tourists how to draw the landscapes immortalized by Van Gogh in her own oily palettes of blues and grays.
We find ourselves in front of the doors of Saint Paul de Mausole, the monastery converted into an asylum where Van Gogh entered in 1889, a year after cutting off his left ear.
Inspiring: Jeremy Taylor traveled to Saint-Rémy-de-Provence to follow in the footsteps of Vincent Van Gogh. Above is Saint Paul de Mausole, the monastery-turned-asylum where the tormented artist was admitted in 1889.
Jeremy wonders if landscape and lavender can inspire his “inner artist” the same way Van Gogh did. Pictured is a lavender field in bloom at the monastery of Saint Paul in Mausole.
Tourists visit to see a reconstruction of the artist’s sparsely decorated room on the first floor and follow a trail that highlights the spots where Van Gogh set up his easel.
“I was fascinated by the quality of the light and the beauty of the landscape,” Aicha tells me.
“Thanks to a serene environment and the help of the nuns, he completed more than 100 drawings and 143 oil paintings in just one year.”
Aicha explains that Saint Paul de Mausole remains to this day a psychiatric home for artists and their works are sold in a nearby gallery.
“From the upstairs windows you can still see those same limestone hills, vineyards and olive groves that made Van Gogh pick up a brush and canvas,” he adds.
There is certainly an atmosphere to the place: very far from the busy Saint Remy, just a few steps away.
In the photo, Van Gogh’s recreated room in Saint Paul de Mausole.
Masterpiece: One of approximately 15 Van Gogh paintings of olive trees. Jeremy tries to paint a similar scene on his visit.
This elegant town of cobblestone streets, cafes and restaurants celebrates Van Gogh’s 444 days in Provence in many ways (some vulgar), but I wonder if the landscape and lavender can inspire my inner artist in the same way.
Aicha set up my easel in front of an olive grove, probably where Van Gogh painted The Olive Trees in June 1889.
Its famous original is said to be worth around £60 million… so no pressure then.
Van Gogh is believed to have painted 15 paintings of olive trees, fascinated by the twisted and twisted shapes that reflected his state of mind at the time.
Saint Remy, pictured, is just a short walk from where Jeremy learns to “draw the landscapes immortalized by Van Gogh.”
In the photo: The Fountain of Nostradamus in the medieval old town of Saint Remy
I start simple, with a touch of yellow sunshine, but the shape of the tree trunks is already driving me crazy. I’m struggling to capture the texture with my clumsy brush strokes.
Aicha tells me to divide my piece into sections, sky, trees and land, and soon I’m moving my brush like a pro.
I find that varying the thickness of the paint adds an uneven and rough texture. Van Gogh used to use paint straight from the tube, but for the leaves, I decide to squeeze all the shades of green onto my palette and freestyle.
By now, a small group of tourists has come to observe. I hold up a thumb to help me measure the distance between the tree trunks, before a small applause breaks out as I scribble my name in the bottom corner.
It looks nothing like it, but I am very tempted to offer my ‘Olive Grove Revisited’ to the highest bidder.
Jeremy describes Saint Remy (pictured) as an “elegant town of cobbled streets, cafes and restaurants.”
Jeremy is staying at Mas Van Gogh (pictured), a restored farmhouse a bike ride from the center of Saint Remy.
That evening I retreat with my rolled-up artwork to Mas Van Gogh, a restored farmhouse a bike ride from the center of St Remy.
This luxurious detached property has an outdoor swimming pool and space for eight guests, but I imagine the Dutch master would have preferred to paint alone in a quiet corner of the huge garden.
‘Olive Grove Revisited’ is now hanging in my downstairs bathroom. One day, when it’s gone, maybe it will resurface in a thrift store. It will not be mistaken for a masterpiece.