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A Texas woman who is a master at identifying fake Chanel handbags has revealed the easiest ways to spot a replica.
Zekrayat Husein, 43, has been dubbed the ‘Coco Chanel of authentication’ and evaluates hundreds of bags every week through his business, Zeko Authentication.
She estimates that around a fifth of the products she assesses each day are fake, but warned that fakes are becoming increasingly difficult to spot.
In recent years, Chanel has pushed the price of its classic medium flap bag up to $10,200, up from around $5,800 in 2019 — so far, many second-hand buyers find a consultation with Husein a worthwhile investment.
“These women save for years for this bag,” she shared The Wall Street Journal. ‘It’s not just a Chanel bag for her, it’s the dream.’
Zekrayat Husein, 43, has been dubbed the ‘Coco Chanel of authentication’
Husein identifies fake Chanel bags, like this one, by looking for certain discrepancies with the original
Every authentic Chanel bag has a unique serial number sticker on the inside of the bag, usually on the inside, in a small pocket or on a small leather tab
Husein’s customers pay $50 for a photo approval or $100 for an in-person appraisal, which many believe is a worthwhile investment for peace of mind.
Here, the mother of three shares her counterfeit-spotting tips, which have helped her authenticate more than 25,000 bags since she started her business in 2019.
Serial numbers
Every authentic Chanel bag has a unique serial number sticker on the inside of the bag, usually on the inside, in a small pocket or on a small leather tab.
This matches with a corresponding authenticity card and can also be used to decipher a bag’s age.
Husein warned that convincing fakes will often replicate a serial number, but she told the Wall Street Journal that 10218184 is the most commonly used.
Color
There are certain consistencies to look for on a genuine Chanel bag’s hardware, according to Husein,
The brand’s MPY hardware, which stands for metallic pale yellow, is actually a darker shade of yellow.
Meanwhile, its metal shiny light gold (MSHLG) hardware is closer to champagne.
Genuine Chanel flap bags, like this one, are made from high-quality lambskin, which contains irregularities that are visible under a microscope, Husein said
Husein said the brand’s trademark metal hardware is often an indicator of whether a wallet is genuine
Husein often looks for bags that have been refurbished with non-Chanel hardware or re-dyed, as this detracts from the value.
She added that all Chanel classic medium flap bags in colors other than black are made exclusively in France and never in Italy.
Material
Husein warned that counterfeiters will sometimes use similar high-quality materials such as lambskin in their fakes.
“They use the exact same leather as Chanel,” she said.
But by identifying the piece under a microscope, she is able to identify some small differences.
She advises buyers to beware of leather that is ‘too symmetrical’ and warns that the hatched pattern on one of Chanel’s classic flap bags should not be identical.
“Each pebble is not meant to be the same size,” Husein added.
Return fraud
Authenticators like Husein are also on the lookout for return fraud with telltale signs, including sellers listing multiple of the same product or items with tags.
Husein advises buyers to beware of leather that is “too symmetrical” and warns that the hatched pattern on one of Chanel’s classic flap bags should not be identical
Consignment giant Fashionphile recently suspected a Gucci retailer of being involved in return fraud and blocked her sale.
The seller had produced receipts from a store that she shared as proof of authenticity, but was building a case against her for baiting and switching the bags.
Other means of authentication
The used luxury market is booming and hit $49.3 billion last year, according to Bain & Co.
“You need a certain eye,” said Michelle Peeters, a Brooklyn-based authenticator.
“It’s never an isolated thing you’re looking for, but a puzzle of pieces and how they all fit together,” Peeters said. ‘The depth of the engravings, the silhouette, the interior, the heat stamping, the foiling technique.’
Peeters began authenticating bags after becoming a dealer in 2009. She charges $35 for certificates.
What Chanel says
Chanel declined to comment on Husein or her business.
A spokesperson told the WSJ that the best way for a customer to be sure they have purchased a genuine piece is to go through the label.
“Training and knowledge of authenticating genuine Chanel-branded goods could only reside in Chanel, and only Chanel skilled employees can know what genuine Chanel is,” the spokesperson said.
Chanel said only its trained staff are qualified to judge the real from the fake, as it encouraged customers to go directly to the brand
In recent years, the brand has won lawsuits against shipping sites that resold fake bags
The luxury brand has recently begun filing lawsuits against used resale sites.
In February, Chanel won a lawsuit against New York store What Goes Around Comes Around and was awarded $4 million in counterfeiting damages.
“Such violations harm consumers and damage Chanel’s goodwill and brand,” a Chanel spokeswoman said in a statement.
Meanwhile, a 2018 lawsuit against luxury consignment retailer The RealReal is still pending.
“We take allegations of inauthenticity seriously and are constantly improving our systems to ensure we address customer feedback and continuously improve,” a RealReal spokesperson told the WSJ.
The company also recently filed new lawsuits against retailers in Atlanta, and has also gone after sellers in New York and on the China-based website DHGate.