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YoIf you’re interested in beauty and self-care trends, you’ve probably heard of red light therapy (RLT). Formally known as photobiomodulation, doctors first discovered that red and near-infrared light wavelengths accelerated hair growth in the late 1960s. Later studies found that it stimulated wound healing. Since then, it’s gradually entered the aesthetics field, initially gaining traction as an in-office tool for postoperative recovery in plastic surgery patients, explains Dr. Prem Tripathi, a facial plastic surgeon based in Alamo, California.
In the mid-2010s, RLT devices for home use emerged. These have gained popularity as a noninvasive way to supposedly smooth wrinkles, heal acne and scars, improve skin tone, and stimulate hair growth.
The cost and style of RLT devices vary. For example, Solawave’s red light wand costs $169, while Dr. Dennis Gross’ mask costs $455 and the canopy-shaped Dermalux Flex MD costs around $2,600. The global market for these devices is estimated to reach $350 million by 2024; a projection suggests it will reach $620 million by 2031.
Despite the recent ubiquity of red light products, “it’s an emerging therapeutic area,” and there’s relatively limited research on the long-term effects of at-home devices compared with more powerful in-office light therapy, says Toronto dermatologist Dr. Annie Liu. So what do we do? In fact Do you know about home treatments for skin care using red light and what they can achieve?
How does red light therapy work?
“Red LED light targets skin cells called fibroblasts, which are crucial for producing collagen, a protein that gives skin its youthful qualities, such as smoothness and elasticity,” explains Liu. RLT activates components within our cells’ mitochondria (known as the “powerhouse” of cells due to their ability to generate chemical energy), which promotes cell repair and regeneration.
“Light treatments are able to stimulate collagen and promote the renewal of connective tissue,” says Dr. Praveen Arany, a wound healing and tissue regeneration specialist at the University of Buffalo.
Devices typically come in several settings. A common choice is a wavelength of around 630nm, which reaches a couple of millimetres from the skin surface; this can help improve fine lines and stimulate hair growthDoes that mean this wavelength could stimulate facial hair growth? “I’ve heard anecdotal reports that existing facial hair will grow faster when using red LED face masks, but more research is definitely needed,” Liu says.
Studies Studies have shown that at a wavelength of 830nm, which is near infrared (just outside the visible spectrum), red light penetrates deeper into tissue, providing anti-inflammatory benefits and the healing effects that originally sparked researchers’ interest. Some devices also feature blue light at wavelengths of 480nm or lower, as blue light has antimicrobial properties and can fight acne on the surface of the skin.
What makes some red light therapy devices more powerful than others?
RLT devices differ in power based on their irradiance, or energy output, which is measured in milliwatts per square centimeter of skin. Most devices on the market offer outputs ranging from 40 mW/cm² to 100 mW/cm², but Tripathi notes that factors such as the distance between the skin and the light source, the angle of the beam, and how much light the skin reflects can all affect how much energy actually penetrates the skin.
Lower-energy devices typically require longer treatment times, while higher-wattage devices provide faster results that are closer to in-office treatments. “In general, the more bulbs a device has, the better,” Tripathi says, as this leads to better energy distribution and more consistent results.
Professional in-office RLT tools “are typically high-power lasers or LEDs that allow for more precise treatments but have higher safety requirements, which means a higher potential for harm,” Arany says.
According to Tripathi, home-use RLT devices are safe enough to operate without a professional present, but much of the research behind the design of these devices is based on studies of these more powerful, medical-grade devices. Unless a manufacturer has conducted independent clinical trials of a product, its claims may be based on the effects of different, more powerful tools.
“If you use something like a wand with very few lights and move it across your skin, the chances of getting the right power, treatment time, and beam angle are pretty low compared to what we see in the office,” Tripathi says. On TikTok, some users are attempting to replicate laser therapy with red or white Christmas lights. heat lamps They are commonly used in chicken farming, but are unlikely to emit the right wavelengths or enough power to benefit the skin, he adds.
If you’re going to invest time in RLT, a product from a reputable brand and tested in third-party clinical trials (e.g. Mito Light Mitohacker 3.0 and the CurrentBody mask) will be your best bet.
Will red light therapy devices really achieve visible skin improvements?
RLT devices look promising. Anecdotally, many users report increased brightness and glare, but Tripathi is more cautious. “There is a limit to how long these devices can be used,” he says. Think of them as a maintenance tool best used between in-office treatments, like brushing your teeth between visits to the dentist — “something that needs to be used consistently, every night, for years.”
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Diligent skin care is the foundation of radiant skin, and RLT is not a replacement but rather “the cherry on top.”
“If you compare red light therapy to using a skin brightener, a retinoid and a sunscreen, I can almost guarantee that skin care products used consistently will be much more effective and easier to maintain than red light,” Tripathi adds.
However, it should be used on bare skin before applying other products. Also, “you still need to use sunscreen, otherwise the anti-aging benefits of the LED device are lost due to UV damage,” Liu notes.
Still, Tripathi, who sits on the advisory board for IPL laser brand Qure, recommends IPL for patients who regularly receive laser treatments, peels or microneedling and want to speed up their skin’s recovery. For those with medical conditions like eczema, rosacea or psoriasis, IPL can also offer promising results. “I’ve seen patients who have gotten great control of their rosacea using primarily at-home LED devices,” Liu says, “and they’re much more affordable than regular in-office treatments.”
What are the possible risks or side effects of incorrect use of red light therapy?
While RLT is generally safe, it’s important to consult a doctor or dermatologist to see if it’s right for you, particularly if you have melasma, hyperpigmentation, or other issues that affect the pigmentation of your skin, which can be sensitive to even low amounts of heat generated by LED devices.
“Be careful of local skin irritation, such as redness, burning and eye irritation,” says Liu. “As it is used without supervision, it is important to always follow the device’s instructions and seek professional help if necessary.”
Does red light therapy provide any health benefits beyond skin care?
Because MRI light therapy relieves inflammation, it may help combat muscle pain, especially at higher energy levels and near-infrared wavelengths. Some small-scale research studies suggest that MRI light therapy may offer sleep benefits by stimulating the body’s production of melatonin.
There is Some evidence that near-infrared wavelengths directed at the brain can temporarily increase cognitive function, Even in healthy individualsand possibly heal injured brain tissue.
This summer, researchers at the University of Notre Dame created a wireless LED device that they hope could one day treat deep-seated cancers.
“I definitely think the use of red light in the skin care and beauty industry will only expand, and that at-home devices will increase in relevance over time” as products continue to improve and more medical research emerges on treatments, Liu says.